The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

I have planned several big hikes for the season. In anticipation of these hikes, it's time to start getting into proper shape. That's why I did this kind of training hike-crossing from the Chayka gorge to the Odjuk gorge. I chose this short route because it consists only of going up and down, without any long treks. You get off the minibus near the former "Chayka" pioneer camp, then it's up, up, up, a stop for lunch and rest, and then down, down, down, straight to the bridge near the department store in the village of Varzob. Convenient, quick, a good workout for the first time, and I was home by about four o'clock.

Chapter 14: The Spirit of Bear Gate from Bear Metamorphoses

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They say no morning is truly good. On a hike, after yesterday's climbs, you feel that to the fullest. Muscles are stiff, the body craves rest, but ahead lies a new day and new summits. To shake off the stiffness, I performed my signature warm-up routine — a set of exercises from different systems, tailored personally for me. While the water boiled, I prepared breakfast: mixed muesli with powdered milk and protein powder, poured boiling water over it. Stretched properly, sat down to eat. By then, the porridge had settled, and the fatigue was completely gone. Washed it all down with sweet coffee — now I was ready for new feats. Sounds a bit pompous, but maintaining a battle-ready mood is necessary — a hunt might be on the agenda today.

Jam Session and Painting Exhibition, Tapioka, Dushanbe, Tajikistan

It was a kind of unique mix of musical improvisation and the paintings of young female artists. A very interesting idea, well executed. Attending this event at the Tapioka coffee house, in the center of Dushanbe, Tajikistan, was a very interesting experience. The atmosphere was one of creative chaos and spontaneity, with bright and original paintings by young artists placed all around, and fiery, exciting improvisations by the musical performers – in short, eclecticism in its purest form. Let's just say, this combination was particularly stirring, charging you with a unique kind of energy. It even made me a little sad that I can neither paint nor sing – insert sad smiley here...

Chapter 13: Return to Iskanderkul from Bear Metamorphoses

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To get back to my previous route, I needed to get to Iskanderkul. Early in the morning, I drove to the taxi stand where you can hire a car for trips north of the city. The difficulty was that I was alone, and drivers prefer a full car. Of course, I could buy out all the seats, but for long distances, that gets expensive. I could pay, but such behavior is unusual, so I decided to look for fellow travelers.

Exhibition of Irina Dmitrieva-Vann, Serena, Dushanbe, Tajikistan

In Dushanbe, from March 8 to April 8, a solo exhibition of Irina Dmitrieva-Vann is taking place at the Serena Hotel. The official opening ceremony of the exhibition was held on the festive day of March 8. I decided not to miss the opportunity to get acquainted with the work of this remarkable artist and went to this event, especially since I was free at that time. Based on my visit to the exhibition and the opening ceremony, I put together a small photo review, which I am happy to share.

A Name on the Map of the Pamirs: The Short and Brilliant Life of Alexei Fedchenko

Alexei Pavlovich Fedchenko (1844–1873) was a distinguished Russian naturalist, explorer, and anthropologist. His pioneering research in geology, zoology, and botany largely laid the foundation for the modern scientific understanding of Central Asia’s nature.

Spring Crafts Fair, Dushanbe, Tajikistan

In Dushanbe, on March 3-4, the Tajikistan Craftsmen Union, with the participation of various charitable organizations, is holding the Spring Crafts Fair at the Ismaili Center. I decided not to stay away from this event and visited the fair on March 3. Visiting a crafts fair is interesting because it offers the opportunity to see, in one place, practically all the crafts of Tajikistan and the craftsmen themselves, although here it might be more appropriate to call them artists. Of course, much of what is presented at the fair can be seen in the city's souvenir shops. But here, you have the chance to see and talk with the people who make all these things, which means you can choose or even order something special, to your own taste, that might not be available in a store. That's the practical benefit of this event, but we shouldn't forget that it is also the original and unique creativity of very gifted people.

The Snowman (Ghul) in Tajikistan: Mysteries of the Pamirs and the Hissar Range

The Snowman, also known as Ghul, Yeti, Bigfoot, or Almasty, is more than just a legend – it's a phenomenon that has stirred the minds of researchers and mystery lovers for decades. Tajikistan, in this sense, is a special place. Its harsh mountains, the inaccessible peaks of the Pamirs, and the mysterious gorges of the Hissar Range guard many secrets, and the history of searching for the Snowman here goes back decades.

The Siyoma Gorge in Winter, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

Of course, it's hard to call this trip a hike, but let's do a photo review, as is the tradition. We happened to drive to the Siyama River Gorge and took some photos. In winter, there's nothing to do in Siyama; everything is covered in snow, and right now this snow is also melting during the day. Small avalanches are constantly falling from the sides, but you might be unlucky and get caught in a larger one somewhere. So, it's not worth taking unnecessary risks. In general, we didn't plan anything special, the opportunity just came up, and we went just to have a look. We walked a little way into the gorge, up to the gazebo on the right side.

The Perilous Beauty of Lake Sarez. Pamir, Tajikistan

Some natural landmarks are officially off-limits to the public. One such place is the mysterious and formidable Lake Sarez in Tajikistan. A permit from the Committee for Emergency Situations is required for a visit, though I cannot judge how strictly this rule is enforced—I personally haven't been there yet. But I very much wanted to tell the story of this unique and incredibly beautiful lake. To do so, I have gathered information and photographs from open sources. Its poetic name—"The Sleeping Dragon"—perfectly reflects its pristine beauty and hidden threat.

Gorge with a Waterfall at the 50km Mark, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

Back in mid-October, I had the chance to visit a small but very intriguing gorge near the 50th kilometer of the Varzob highway. I can’t say exactly which kilometer it was—it completely slipped my mind to check. On the way back, I asked the driver; he gave an answer, though he didn’t seem entirely sure, so let’s just say it’s in the vicinity of the 50km mark in the Varzob Gorge. Regardless, the hike happened, which means it’s time for a photo review.

The «House Book» Stone on Lake Iskanderkul

A large boulder lies on the eastern shore of Lake Iskanderkul. Many call it the «House Book». The stone is almost completely covered with inscriptions – short ones, like a name, a year, where the person came from. It's one of the local sights.

Salt Cave, Khoja Mumin Mountain, Vose District, Khatlon, Tajikistan

One of the landmarks of the Khatlon region, near the city of Vose, is Khoja Mumin Mountain. The people of Tajikistan see a product from this mountain on their tables daily: common salt. The Khoja Mumin plant is located at the foot of the mountain and produces this salt, supplying all of Tajikistan and also exporting it. According to expert estimates, the salt from Khoja Mumin Mountain could feed the entire world for a hundred years, so abundant are the deposits here.

Museum and Ancient City of Hulbuk, Vose, Khatlon, Tajikistan

The Hulbuk settlement (ancient city), more precisely the ancient city, was the capital of the ancient state of Khuttal. Today, it is an architectural monument dating from the 9th to the 12th centuries. Hulbuk was located on one of the southern branches of the Great Silk Road, thus occupying an important strategic position that facilitated cultural and trade exchange. Crafts of various kinds flourished in the city – pottery, glassblowing, jewelry making, blacksmithing, and many others.

Chapter 7: The Roads of the Pamirs from Bear Metamorphoses

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After descending a bit lower, I found a cozy little clearing. It was warmer here. I decided to rest and figure out my route. I transformed, took out my phone to look at the maps, and saw—a missed call from Shams. I called him back immediately.

All Ten Bridges in the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

On the last day of my hike, I trekked through the Odjuk Gorge from the Kumkayakutal Pass to the village of Varzob. I took this opportunity to dedicate a photo review to the ten bridges that now span the gorge. Previously known as the "Gorge of the Seven Bridges" among tourists, the presence of these ten bridges is a welcome sight compared to the Semiganch Gorge, where no bridges exist, and I had to jump over stones to cross the river.

Chapter 6: The Curse of the Circle of Darkness from Bear Metamorphoses

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Judging by the tracks, the Englishman, possessed by the jondor, after crossing the ridge, didn't descend but turned west. The altitude here, by the way, was considerable. A snow-covered section ran along the ridge's edge. After passing it, he turned. His path ran below the snow line but was still high up. Given how fast he was moving, one could only marvel at the Englishman's physical conditioning, whose name, incidentally, I still hadn't bothered to learn. If he continued like this without changing direction, he would eventually come out to a section of the highway between Ishkashim and Khorog. That road also ran along the border. Surely he wasn't going back to Afghanistan? That would be too much!

Kumkayakutal Pass, 3-Day Hike, Semiganch Gorge, Romit, Mountains of Tajikistan

This is a photo review of the third day of my four-day trek from Kharangon to Ojuk through the Semiganch Gorge. In the last photo review, I stopped at the moment when I descended from Mount Mushteppa to the village of Dora. In the kishlak, I visited Faiz, reloaded my camera, had a delicious and filling lunch, and rested a bit from the hardships of camp life. Then, I continued along the river in the Semiganch Gorge towards the Kumkayakutal Pass in the Romit region. Once I pass the pass, I'll find myself in the Odjuk Gorge in the Varzob region..

Chapter 5: Back Across the Panj from Bear Metamorphoses

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It became clear I wouldn't catch the group before they crossed the river and the border. The road from the Panjshir Gorge came out to the Panj River opposite Ishkashim. The Englishmen had turned right and driven along the Afghan bank towards Khandud. Theoretically, they could now cross at any point—they just needed to ford the river. But logically, they would wait for darkness. They didn't just need to cross; they needed to go somewhere further. Bek said they had taken mountain equipment, meaning they might be heading into the mountains. They could enter the mountains in numerous places, provided they knew them. And they did know—they had a guide.

The Pamir Mountains: The Origin of the Name and Other Interesting Facts

The Pamir mountain system forms a unique planetary junction, where the spurs of Asia's greatest ranges—the Hindu Kush, Tien Shan, Karakoram, and Kunlun—converge. This grand uplift of the Earth's crust neighbors deep depressions, such as the Tarim (Kashgar) Basin. The Pamir is located at the crossroads of several nations: Tajikistan, China, Afghanistan, and Pakistan. However, its central, highest part, containing the main peaks, lies within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Republic of Tajikistan.