Chapter 4: On Chicken Street in Kabul from Bear Metamorphoses

Chapter 4: On Chicken Street in Kabul from Bear Metamorphoses
≪ to the previous chapter
On the Afghan side of the Panj, just like on the Tajik side, there was a small settlement near the bridge. To avoid being seen, I didn't approach it but immediately headed towards the road. Of the main roads, only one led south from the bridge—first to Kunduz, and then on to Kabul. I ran alongside this road, not getting too close, but not losing sight of it either.

Chapter 3: The Pursuit Continues from Bear Metamorphoses

Chapter 2: The Pursuit Continues from Bear Metamorphoses
≪ to the previous chapter
Nursultan, the driver who had taken the Englishmen to the city, didn't show up until the next morning. He said he'd arrived during the night and needed to rest. I was glad he'd appeared at all—he could have simply gone about his business and never come. I asked him about the Englishmen. He said he'd dropped them off at the "Sheraton." He also mentioned they had argued the entire way, especially the red-haired one, who seemed to be fighting with everyone. There were four of them, including the redhead. Nursultan left them at the hotel; he didn't know what they did after that because he went straight to the taxi stand. This stand was in the northern part of the city, the only place he could find passengers for the return trip in the direction he needed.

Chapter 2: The Lake of Spirits from Bear Metamorphoses

Chapter 2: The Lake of Spirits from Bear Metamorphoses
≪ to the previous chapter
My path now led to another point of interest—Lake Payron, also known as the Lake of the Peris. Another name is the Lake of Fairies or Spirits. It refers to the beautiful peris, spirits from Eastern folklore who always appear to humans in the form of alluring women. Peris more or less correspond to fairies in Western tradition, though those are usually small, while peris are human-sized. In principle, it's all mythology—where does one find exact correspondences?

Chapter 1: The Gorge of Fear from Bear Metamorphoses

Chapter 1: The Gorge of Fear from Bear Metamorphoses
≪ to the previous chapter
I only drank coffee in the morning—I wasn't hungry. I packed up the tent, stowed everything in my backpack, and headed back to the trail. I went down along the old caravan route. By evening, I was in the village, found a guesthouse—there turned out to be several here. I chose the one on the eastern side. Later, I would need to head east anyway, to the abandoned settlement—rumors were circulating about strange happenings there. But all that could wait; for now, I needed to recover. And that meant meat and alcohol.

Prologue: The Ice Witch’s Lake from Bear Metamorphoses

Prologue: The Ice Witch’s Lake from Bear Metamorphoses
The going was tough—the altitude was taking its toll. I had walked about fifty meters down from the highest point of the pass saddle and found the spot where the creature had presumably attacked its victim. For now, we’ll just call it a creature. We’ll figure out what it really is later. So, the attack site was identified: a rocky outcrop jutted above the trail, perfect for an ambush. I examined it—just as I thought. I found a secluded niche from which a stale, nauseating smell emanated. It was logical to assume the creature had been coming here from the eastern side of the road.

How to Estimate Time and Distance on a Hike

How to Estimate Time and Distance on a Hike
Figuring out how many kilometers you need to cover and how long it will take are crucial questions when planning an expedition. We're used to road signs and speedometers telling us where we are in a car. On a hike, we'd like to know that too.
Unfortunately, it's not that simple—measuring distance in steps, especially over rough terrain, is monotonous and tedious. A map can show the total distance to your destination, but it doesn't account for hills, gullies, and other obstacles that add extra kilometers. So, distance can only be estimated. However, there are situations where a rough calculation of time and distance is not only useful but necessary.

How to Read a Map Correctly and Plan the Perfect Route

How to Read a Map Correctly and Plan the Perfect Route
In the United Kingdom, you have access to excellent maps created by the Military Topographic Service. However, not all maps are of such high quality, so you must learn to extract the maximum amount of information from them. To do this, you need to master topographic symbols.

The Skill of Land Navigation: Working with a Compass and Map

The Skill of Land Navigation: Working with a Compass and Map
The ability to determine your location is a key skill for any traveler. It distinguishes a prepared individual from an ordinary nature enthusiast and can be critical in an emergency. This is important not only in remote wilderness areas but in any terrain where one faces the elements. Confident navigation is the key to a successful trip.

Teamwork: How to Make a Hike Successful

Teamwork: How to Make a Hike Successful
Whether you're staying at a stationary camp with many people or have stopped for the night with a small group on a trek, you should always feel like part of a team. I have spent a lot of time traveling in small groups through the planet's most severe environments.

Maintaining General Hygiene on a Camping Trip

Maintaining General Hygiene on a Camping Trip
While each person is responsible for their own personal hygiene, when in a camp or on a hike, everyone must also be accountable for communal, or general, hygiene.

Waste Disposal


When setting up camp, designate a waste collection area with separate zones for kitchen wastewater, biodegradable waste, and non-biodegradable waste.

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