Chapter 7: The Roads of the Pamirs from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
After descending a bit lower, I found a cozy little clearing. It was warmer here. I decided to rest and figure out my route. I transformed, took out my phone to look at the maps, and saw—a missed call from Shams. I called him back immediately.

Chapter 6: The Curse of the Circle of Darkness from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
Judging by the tracks, the Englishman, possessed by the jondor, after crossing the ridge, didn't descend but turned west. The altitude here, by the way, was considerable. A snow-covered section ran along the ridge's edge. After passing it, he turned. His path ran below the snow line but was still high up. Given how fast he was moving, one could only marvel at the Englishman's physical conditioning, whose name, incidentally, I still hadn't bothered to learn. If he continued like this without changing direction, he would eventually come out to a section of the highway between Ishkashim and Khorog. That road also ran along the border. Surely he wasn't going back to Afghanistan? That would be too much!

Chapter 5: Back Across the Panj from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
It became clear I wouldn't catch the group before they crossed the river and the border. The road from the Panjshir Gorge came out to the Panj River opposite Ishkashim. The Englishmen had turned right and driven along the Afghan bank towards Khandud. Theoretically, they could now cross at any point—they just needed to ford the river. But logically, they would wait for darkness. They didn't just need to cross; they needed to go somewhere further. Bek said they had taken mountain equipment, meaning they might be heading into the mountains. They could enter the mountains in numerous places, provided they knew them. And they did know—they had a guide.

Chapter 1: The Gorge of Fear from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
I only drank coffee in the morning—I wasn't hungry. I packed up the tent, stowed everything in my backpack, and headed back to the trail. I went down along the old caravan route. By evening, I was in the village, found a guesthouse—there turned out to be several here. I chose the one on the eastern side. Later, I would need to head east anyway, to the abandoned settlement—rumors were circulating about strange happenings there. But all that could wait; for now, I needed to recover. And that meant meat and alcohol.

The Siyoma River runs through the upper reaches of the Varzob Gorge in the Tajikistan mountains

The Siyoma River Gorge is situated 54 kilometers along the Varzob highway, almost directly opposite the Varzob Climbing Camp. It is a popular destination for mountain hikers and on weekends, both local residents of Dushanbe and visitors from other cities and countries can often be found here. The Siyoma River starts at an elevation of 1782 meters above sea level, at its confluence with the Varzob River near the road, and rises to 3000-3200 meters in its upper reaches.

All ten bridges in the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, located in the mountains of Tajikistan.

On the last day of my hike, I trekked through the Odjuk Gorge from the Kumkayakutal Pass to the village of Varzob. I took this opportunity to dedicate a photo review to the ten bridges that now span the gorge. Previously known as the "Gorge of the Seven Bridges" among tourists, the presence of these ten bridges is a welcome sight compared to the Semiganch Gorge, where no bridges exist, and I had to jump over stones to cross the river.

Kumkayakutal Pass is a 3-day hike located in the Semiganch Gorge of the Romit Mountains in Tajikistan

This is a photo review of the third day of my four-day trek from Kharangon to Ojuk through the Semiganch Gorge. In the llast photo review, I stopped at the moment when I descended from Mount Mushteppa to the village of Dora. In the kishlak, I visited Faiz, reloaded my camera, had a delicious and filling lunch, and rested a bit from the hardships of camp life. Then, I continued along the river in the Semiganch Gorge towards the Kumkayakutal Pass in the Romit region. Once I pass the pass, I'll find myself in the Odjuk Gorge in the Varzob region..

Mount Mushtepa, day 2 of the hike, is a ridge between the Varzob and Ramit gorges, in the mountains of Tajikistan.

The second day of my four-day hike was entirely dedicated to Mount Mushtepa. Mount Mushtepa is located on the watershed ridge between the Varzob and Ramit rivers, so on this day, I visited both of them. I began the ascent on the Varzob side in the Harangon River gorge, and by midday, I had reached the summit of Mushtepa before descending to the Ramit side in the Semiganch gorge.

Hiking to the waterfalls in the Voru Gorge, Odzhuk Mountains, Varzob District, Tajikistan

The first hike of the year, I decided to go to the waterfalls in the Voru Gorge in Odjukskie Mountains, Varzob district, Tajikistan. Previously, I called it the Lost Waterfall. Of course, no one lost this waterfall, but it needed a name, so why not call it Lost? I had already seen it a couple of times before, once when we descended from the ridge that lies between Takob and Odjuk on this hike: Crossing from the Begar Gorge to Odjuk. At that time, I thought I should go to this waterfall, and the convenient moment finally arrived. I also thought it was the only one there, but there were other waterfalls, though smaller.

In Search of the Gusgarf Waterfall - Short story

Long before I set off on this journey, I was asked if I had been to the Gusgarf Waterfall. "No," I answered, "what waterfall is that?" Various descriptions followed, all of which essentially amounted to it being a large waterfall, about thirty meters high, also known as "Pioneer". I decided I should go, but I couldn't find anyone to go with me. It seemed like many people were hiking, but not specifically to that waterfall. I asked where exactly the waterfall was located, but the explanations were confusing. In the end, I decided to go by myself and find it. If it's such a big and famous waterfall, I'll surely find it, I thought. I'll ask the locals if I need to.

The Odzhuk Ring - Short story

People usually go on mountain hikes in groups - it's more fun and safer that way. However, there are exceptions to this "usually," and there is such a thing as solo hikes. Sometimes a person finds themselves alone in the mountains out of necessity, but that's different. I'm talking about when someone chooses to hike alone. The specific reasons why people choose to hike alone are always different, and this phenomenon applies to all types of mountain hikes. There are even mountaineers who climb peaks alone, the so-called solo ascents. This phenomenon is not new, it's just not very common. In the Soviet past, such individualism was not encouraged at all, so in the West, this phenomenon is more developed.

Hiking the Odzhuk circuit, across the Kichkine and Childukhtaroun passes, Varzob, mountains of Tajikistan

I completed a solo trek along the Odzhuk loop. The route, as the name suggests, passes through the Odzhuk gorge in Varzob, Tajikistan. To complete this route, one must hike through the entire Odzhuk gorge up to the Kichkine pass, then traverse the plateau to the Childukhtarun pass and descend back into Odzhuk. Ideally, this route can be completed in two days with one overnight stay, but since I was alone and taking my time, climbing and taking photos wherever I could, my trek took three days and two nights.

Hike in the Arg gorge, near Lake Iskanderkul, Fann Mountains, Tajikistan

In the Fan Mountains of Tajikistan, near Iskanderkul Lake, there is a river called Arg, which gives its name to the gorge. The Arg River is a tributary of the Sarytag River and one of the rivers that feeds Iskanderkul Lake. We were interested specifically in the Arg River, which is sometimes spelled ArX on maps, but I am more accustomed to ArG. We drove from the "Iskanderkul" tourist base to a fork in the road and continued on foot. From the beginning of the gorge, where the Arg River flows into the Sarytag, it was about four kilometers to the area we were interested in.

Hiking in Zimchurud Gorge, Varzob, Tajikistan

The trail to Zimchurud Gorge begins from the Varzob highway, near the village of Varzobkala, which is about 24 kilometers away from Dushanbe, a little before reaching the village of Varzob. After some time past this village, the next village, Zimchurud, appears. I think the name "Zimchurud Gorge" comes from the name of the village rather than the river, as is usually the case. This is because the river here is called Angoriso, which is a tributary of the Varzob River.

Hiking in the canyon at the 22nd kilometer of the Varzob road, in the mountains of Tajikistan.

The canyon at the 22nd kilometer of the Varzob road is sometimes called "Mulberry Canyon" or "Snake Canyon". At the beginning of the canyon, there are indeed many mulberry trees, but the season for them has already passed. However, there are many other berries, such as blackberries, apricots, and grapes, and they literally cover the ground deep inside the canyon. Fortunately, we did not encounter any snakes as the weather was cloudy and they usually do not come out of their burrows in such conditions since there is no sun to warm them up.

Hiking in the waterfall gorge in Odzhuk, Varzob, Tajikistan

In the Odzhuk gorge, if you don't cross the second bridge and go straight, you can reach a meadow called "Pensioners' Meadow". A funny name, by the way, apparently because it's not far to walk. Although, I know some pensioners who walk so well that not every young person can keep up with them, regardless of their level of fitness. The gorge that begins after this meadow is also called simply "The Waterfall Gorge".

Hiking to Kabanye Gorge in Odjuk, Varzob, mountains of Tajikistan

The Odjuk Gorge seems familiar and nearby, but in reality, it is very large with many branches leading to small gorges in different directions. Among these small gorges, there are many unusual and beautiful ones, and today I am introducing one of them to you - the Kabanye Gorge. I do not know why it is called "Kabanye," perhaps because wild boars roam around, but I am not a hunter and cannot say anything on this matter. The Kabanye Gorge is also called the "Jacuzzi" Gorge due to the many indentations in the rocks along the river that flows through it, which really resemble Jacuzzis.

Hiking to Upper Chayka, Varzob Gorge, Mountains of Tajikistan

Upper Chayka gorge is located 23 km along the Varzob highway and gets its name from the former pioneer camp Chayka. The designation of upper or lower simply depends on how you plan to move along the gorge, i.e. downwards or upwards, and we chose Upper Chayka.

Hiking in Odzhuk Gorge for Epiphany, Varzob, mountains of Tajikistan

The tradition of Epiphany bathing dates back to ancient times. Of course, if you have the opportunity to bathe in the holy Jordan River (in Israel) on Epiphany, do not miss it. However, you can bathe on Epiphany in any lake, river, or body of water. It is preferable for the ice hole to be in the form of a cross. But there are no strict rules for how to bathe on Epiphany. In other words, a mountain river, in our case, is perfect.

Hiking to the 21st kilometer of the Varzob Gorge, mountains of Tajikistan

The 21st kilometer gorge is probably one of the most visited gorges in the Varzob area, at least it used to be. It starts, as the name suggests, at the 21st kilometer of the Varzob highway and stretches for about half a day's journey until it reaches a waterfall. It's very convenient for a day hike. But that's in the summer, and today I don't think we'll make it to the waterfall, but nevertheless, we'll wander around...