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The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
I have planned several big hikes for the season. In anticipation of these hikes, it's time to start getting into proper shape. That's why I did this kind of training hike-crossing from the Chayka gorge to the Odjuk gorge. I chose this short route because it consists only of going up and down, without any long treks. You get off the minibus near the former "Chayka" pioneer camp, then it's up, up, up, a stop for lunch and rest, and then down, down, down, straight to the bridge near the department store in the village of Varzob. Convenient, quick, a good workout for the first time, and I was home by about four o'clock.

I went through it so quickly that it even seemed like I wasn't tired, but that impression was deceptive. By evening, and especially by morning, I felt all the consequences of the descent and ascent. But, such consequences are easily dealt with, either by a sauna or yoga. The very first series of Ashtanga yoga, that is, yoga chikitsa, is designed, among other things, to cleanse the body of waste, toxins, and other effects of physical exertion. The full series really clears you out and gets things moving. By the way, I rarely do the full series; it takes a long time, and I simply don't have time for that kind of daily masochism, so I usually do short sequences. Hindus must live in some other universe where they have loads of time. But, in certain cases like this, the full series really helps and comes in handy.


Another feature of this hike was the mushrooms. Spring in Tajikistan is the best time for mushrooms; while it's still damp and the grass hasn't dried out, there are plenty of mushrooms. Like here, for example. Although, these are just knight mushrooms (Tricholoma), I didn't even bother with them, let them keep growing.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


But a bit later, I came across some decent mushrooms. Well, "came across" isn't quite right; I just knew a spot, and managed to pick about two kilos. For some reason, I took a photo of the bag closed; I only just noticed that now, but it's okay, you can still see them, even if it's a bit blurry.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


Photos from the ascent. Nothing special to comment on, just the ascent, fresh air, neither hot nor cold, in a word – wonderful.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


Here I reached the watershed. On the left is the Chayka Gorge, and on the right is the Odjuk Gorge.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


But, the end point of my route is further ahead, on the next rise.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


Photos from this intermediate point.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


On the saddle between these two rises, there's a wonderful clearing. If the hike had involved an overnight stay, I would definitely have stopped here. No matter which way you look, there's no sign of civilization, but the signal strength is excellent, so it's convenient and all. Here is that clearing and the views from it.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


I met a beautiful butterfly in the clearing.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


Next, I reached the highest point. The altitude here is about 1900 meters, maybe not that high, but I think it's quite sufficient for a first-day workout. From here, it's all downhill. The descent leads straight to the village of Varzob, which is in the Odjuk Gorge, and you move only along the top. And here are the views from this peak in different directions.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


Next, I began the descent into the Odjuk Gorge that opened up below. This is its small branch; the next couloir is the gorge of waterfalls – here is a link to the photo review of visiting it.
A little lower down on the descent, I found a convenient clearing with a tree where I settled down for a rest and lunch. I also took some photos. These are photos from the clearing.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


These are photos with me.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


Now all that's left is to descend. Photos from the descent.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


You could say I've reached the home stretch; you can see the trail and the village of Varzob.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


This is a photo in the Odjuk Gorge; you can see the dachas below.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


This is where I'm coming from.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


This makes it clearer. The farthest hill on the right is where I climbed up from Chayka. Next is the highest point, and you can see the trail I followed to get here.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


The Odjuk Gorge, you can see almost to the end. And other photos all around.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


Well, after that, there was really nothing more to photograph, so I put my camera away and started descending to the village of Varzob along the trail you can see in the photo.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


And for the full picture, here's a view of these hills from the minibus stop near the department store. The far-right hill, between the signs, is the one I climbed up from the Chayka Gorge, and the next one is the highest point of my route today.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

All the best to you and interesting hikes.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan


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