Chapter 7: The Roads of the Pamirs from Bear Metamorphoses

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After descending a bit lower, I found a cozy little clearing. It was warmer here. I decided to rest and figure out my route. I transformed, took out my phone to look at the maps, and saw—a missed call from Shams. I called him back immediately.

Chapter 6: The Curse of the Circle of Darkness from Bear Metamorphoses

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Judging by the tracks, the Englishman, possessed by the jondor, after crossing the ridge, didn't descend but turned west. The altitude here, by the way, was considerable. A snow-covered section ran along the ridge's edge. After passing it, he turned. His path ran below the snow line but was still high up. Given how fast he was moving, one could only marvel at the Englishman's physical conditioning, whose name, incidentally, I still hadn't bothered to learn. If he continued like this without changing direction, he would eventually come out to a section of the highway between Ishkashim and Khorog. That road also ran along the border. Surely he wasn't going back to Afghanistan? That would be too much!

Chapter 5: Back Across the Panj from Bear Metamorphoses

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It became clear I wouldn't catch the group before they crossed the river and the border. The road from the Panjshir Gorge came out to the Panj River opposite Ishkashim. The Englishmen had turned right and driven along the Afghan bank towards Khandud. Theoretically, they could now cross at any point—they just needed to ford the river. But logically, they would wait for darkness. They didn't just need to cross; they needed to go somewhere further. Bek said they had taken mountain equipment, meaning they might be heading into the mountains. They could enter the mountains in numerous places, provided they knew them. And they did know—they had a guide.

Chapter 4: On Chicken Street in Kabul from Bear Metamorphoses

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On the Afghan side of the Panj, just like on the Tajik side, there was a small settlement near the bridge. To avoid being seen, I didn't approach it but immediately headed towards the road. Of the main roads, only one led south from the bridge—first to Kunduz, and then on to Kabul. I ran alongside this road, not getting too close, but not losing sight of it either.

Chapter 3: The Pursuit Continues from Bear Metamorphoses

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Nursultan, the driver who had taken the Englishmen to the city, didn't show up until the next morning. He said he'd arrived during the night and needed to rest. I was glad he'd appeared at all—he could have simply gone about his business and never come. I asked him about the Englishmen. He said he'd dropped them off at the "Sheraton." He also mentioned they had argued the entire way, especially the red-haired one, who seemed to be fighting with everyone. There were four of them, including the redhead. Nursultan left them at the hotel; he didn't know what they did after that because he went straight to the taxi stand. This stand was in the northern part of the city, the only place he could find passengers for the return trip in the direction he needed.

Chapter 2: The Lake of Spirits from Bear Metamorphoses

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My path now led to another point of interest—Lake Payron, also known as the Lake of the Peris. Another name is the Lake of Fairies or Spirits. It refers to the beautiful peris, spirits from Eastern folklore who always appear to humans in the form of alluring women. Peris more or less correspond to fairies in Western tradition, though those are usually small, while peris are human-sized. In principle, it's all mythology—where does one find exact correspondences?

Chapter 1: The Gorge of Fear from Bear Metamorphoses

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I only drank coffee in the morning—I wasn't hungry. I packed up the tent, stowed everything in my backpack, and headed back to the trail. I went down along the old caravan route. By evening, I was in the village, found a guesthouse—there turned out to be several here. I chose the one on the eastern side. Later, I would need to head east anyway, to the abandoned settlement—rumors were circulating about strange happenings there. But all that could wait; for now, I needed to recover. And that meant meat and alcohol.

Prologue: The Ice Witch’s Lake from Bear Metamorphoses

The going was tough—the altitude was taking its toll. I had walked about fifty meters down from the highest point of the pass saddle and found the spot where the creature had presumably attacked its victim. For now, we’ll just call it a creature. We’ll figure out what it really is later. So, the attack site was identified: a rocky outcrop jutted above the trail, perfect for an ambush. I examined it—just as I thought. I found a secluded niche from which a stale, nauseating smell emanated. It was logical to assume the creature had been coming here from the eastern side of the road.

Hills behind Victory Park in Dushanbe, Tajikistan

Decided to take a walk to the hills behind Victory Park. Overall, the hike didn't go very well, I chose the wrong time, didn't equip myself properly. Also, I didn't fully decide on the final destination of the route, just stood up and started walking. Of course, I didn't get anywhere. As Seneca said: For a ship without a destination, no wind is favorable. In the end, I sat on the top of one of the hills and then went back. I didn't feel like taking photos anymore. Interestingly, when you are not interested, nothing interesting comes your way... haha, that's life.

Mountain spirits in Tajikistan, myth or part of cultural heritage

In Tajikistan, like in many other countries, there are myths and legends about mountain spirits. These creatures possess supernatural abilities and are considered guardians of mountainous areas. Just a few commonly accepted descriptions of mountain spirits will be given as an example. However, in reality, such legends and myths exist in every region, so there are many variations of mountain spirits in these stories. The most famous mountain spirits in Tajikistan and their brief descriptions are given below.

Mountain paradise for hiking in Tajikistan

Tajikistan is one of the most mountainous countries in the world. The majority of its territory is located within an extensive mountain range formed by several mountain systems. There are many stunning mountainous areas here that attract tourists from all over the world. Mountain hiking in Tajikistan is an unforgettable adventure that allows you to enjoy the beauty of the mountain nature and feel the spirit of freedom and adventure.

How Navruz is celebrated in Tajikistan and other countries of the world

On March 21st each year, the world celebrates the spring equinox, which is a symbol of the beginning of spring and a new cycle of nature. This day has different names and traditions of celebration in different countries, and one of such countries is Tajikistan, where the holiday is called Navruz.

The Contribution of Alexei Fedchenko to the History of Exploring the Nature of Tajikistan

Aleksey Pavlovich Fedchenko (1844-1873) was an outstanding Russian naturalist, traveler, and paleontologist. His research in the fields of geology, zoology, and botany largely formed the basis of modern science about the living world. Aleksey Fedchenko was born in Moscow to a family of peasant origin. From a young age, he showed an interest in nature, collecting and studying insects. In 1862, he enrolled in the physics and mathematics faculty at Moscow University, where he began to study natural sciences.

The Yeti in Tajikistan

The Yeti, also known as the Abominable Snowman, the Ghoul, or Bigfoot, is the subject of many legends and myths, as well as a source of excitement and curiosity for many people. Tajikistan is one of the places where encounters with this mysterious creature have been reported.

The Siyoma River runs through the upper reaches of the Varzob Gorge in the Tajikistan mountains

The Siyoma River Gorge is situated 54 kilometers along the Varzob highway, almost directly opposite the Varzob Climbing Camp. It is a popular destination for mountain hikers and on weekends, both local residents of Dushanbe and visitors from other cities and countries can often be found here. The Siyoma River starts at an elevation of 1782 meters above sea level, at its confluence with the Varzob River near the road, and rises to 3000-3200 meters in its upper reaches.

Javonon Park, Komsomol Lake, and Dushanbe City in Tajikistan

There is currently a significant amount of construction underway in Dushanbe, causing the city's appearance to rapidly change. The construction has affected almost all of the city's parks, but I would like to focus on Javonon Park near Komsomol Lake. The lake is now known as Javonon, but I am more familiar with its previous name, as are many others. The park used to have Soviet-era merry-go-rounds, impromptu cafes, and barbecues, which left a depressing impression. However, the park has now been transformed into a beautiful, open, and spacious cultural and recreational park that is perfect for strolling, relaxing, and enjoying the scenery.

Salt Cave, Khoja Mumin Mountain, Vose District, Khatlon, Tajikistan

One of the landmarks of the Khatlon region, near the city of Vose, is Khoja Mumin Mountain. The people of Tajikistan see a product from this mountain on their tables daily: common salt. The Khoja Mumin plant is located at the foot of the mountain and produces this salt, supplying all of Tajikistan and also exporting it. According to expert estimates, the salt from Khoja Mumin Mountain could feed the entire world for a hundred years, so abundant are the deposits here.

All ten bridges in the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, located in the mountains of Tajikistan.

On the last day of my hike, I trekked through the Odjuk Gorge from the Kumkayakutal Pass to the village of Varzob. I took this opportunity to dedicate a photo review to the ten bridges that now span the gorge. Previously known as the "Gorge of the Seven Bridges" among tourists, the presence of these ten bridges is a welcome sight compared to the Semiganch Gorge, where no bridges exist, and I had to jump over stones to cross the river.

Kumkayakutal Pass is a 3-day hike located in the Semiganch Gorge of the Romit Mountains in Tajikistan

This is a photo review of the third day of my four-day trek from Kharangon to Ojuk through the Semiganch Gorge. In the llast photo review, I stopped at the moment when I descended from Mount Mushteppa to the village of Dora. In the kishlak, I visited Faiz, reloaded my camera, had a delicious and filling lunch, and rested a bit from the hardships of camp life. Then, I continued along the river in the Semiganch Gorge towards the Kumkayakutal Pass in the Romit region. Once I pass the pass, I'll find myself in the Odjuk Gorge in the Varzob region..

Mount Mushtepa, day 2 of the hike, is a ridge between the Varzob and Ramit gorges, in the mountains of Tajikistan.

The second day of my four-day hike was entirely dedicated to Mount Mushtepa. Mount Mushtepa is located on the watershed ridge between the Varzob and Ramit rivers, so on this day, I visited both of them. I began the ascent on the Varzob side in the Harangon River gorge, and by midday, I had reached the summit of Mushtepa before descending to the Ramit side in the Semiganch gorge.