The Siyoma Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

The Siyoma River Gorge is situated 54 kilometers along the Varzob highway, almost directly opposite the Varzob Climbing Camp. It is a popular destination for mountain hikers and on weekends, both local residents of Dushanbe and visitors from other cities and countries can often be found here. The Siyoma River starts at an elevation of 1782 meters above sea level, at its confluence with the Varzob River near the road, and rises to 3000-3200 meters in its upper reaches.

Chapter 21: Homecoming from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
I woke in the morning, rose from the bed, and felt literally overflowing with energy. It seemed if I jumped, I might just fly. But I didn't jump—who knows, I might actually take off, and then I'd have to live with that. Instead, I looked around. My gaze fell on the tub of moonshine, and I shuddered. Ugh, what vile stuff this homebrew... I mean, moonshine is. I pulled myself together and stepped out of the dwelling.

Hike to Mount Olam Jakhon, between Varzob and Romit, Tajikistan

I first saw this mountain while hiking the Odjuk Ring route. At the same time, I also first heard the name "Olam Jakhon" from a local guy I met along the way. At that moment, I didn't believe him. If you translate the name into Russian, the closest meaning of the phrase "Olam Jakhon" would probably be Universe (World of worlds). So I doubted it, thinking maybe the guy decided to "slightly" embellish or just didn't know the name.

Chapter 20: The Div, the Raven, and the Log from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
The next morning, an unexpected problem arose: I couldn't decide what to take with me. The ingredients for catching the unknown spirit were clear enough, but the rest... Packing for a full-scale expedition seemed pointless—I had a place to stay in the settlement, and they'd feed me if necessary. However, the journey was through the mountains, and it was better to be safe than sorry. So I sat there, racking my brains about what to take and which backpack to pack it all in. I could manage with a small one, but what if I needed extra space?

Waterfall in the Stone Sack, Kharangoni Ridge, Varzob, Tajikistan

I had known about this waterfall for a long time, but I never managed to see it. The thing is, the waterfall can only be seen in the spring. By June it dries up, and in its place is only a black wall – black because it's damp, as some water still seeps through constantly. I first visited this place as a child at the "Cosmos" pioneer camp, which was located nearby, sometime in the early 80s. It was from this pioneer camp that a big hike involving several groups was organized to the "Stone Sack," as this place is called.

Hills Behind Victory Park in Dushanbe, Tajikistan

Decided to take a walk to the hills behind Victory Park. Overall, the hike didn't go very well, I chose the wrong time, didn't equip myself properly. Also, I didn't fully decide on the final destination of the route, just stood up and started walking. Of course, I didn't get anywhere. As Seneca said: For a ship without a destination, no wind is favorable. In the end, I sat on the top of one of the hills and then went back. I didn't feel like taking photos anymore. Interestingly, when you are not interested, nothing interesting comes your way... haha, that's life.

Hiking to the 21 km Gorge for herbs, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

This time, I decided not to do a photo review like I usually do, for the simple reason that there are already more than enough photo reviews from this gorge. However, since we did go on a hike, I think I should post something. In this post, I've shared photos of myself in a somewhat humorous context. Well, maybe it's only funny to me; judge for yourselves... :) First, for the sake of completeness, I'll provide links to the photo reviews I've already done of this gorge.

Varzob Peak, a hike from the 21 km Gorge to Odzhuk, mountains of Tajikistan

I had wanted to climb Varzob Peak for a long time, but it never worked out due to the inconvenient location of this mountain. In the sense that the mountain is seemingly close, but no matter which side you ascend from, you only reach Varzob Peak closer to evening, meaning I would have to plan an overnight stay. Although, you could go via the quarries; there's a road that leads to the ridge, and from there the climb would take a couple of hours. But that doesn't seem very sporting to me; if you're going to climb, it should be properly, from the foot of the mountain.

Chapter 19: The Gift of the Stone from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
Approaching the elder's dwelling, I saw him in the yard. He was sitting on the stones by the entrance, talking to the girl who brought me food. Spotting me, he said something else to her—apparently finishing the conversation. She nodded and immediately dashed off. So, she always ran like that. By then, I had reached him.

Hike to Mount Chorbed, Varzob Gorge, Tajikistan

Mount Chorbed, 2022 meters high, is clearly visible from the city of Dushanbe. It is the first high mountain on the right side of the road when looking from Dushanbe towards Varzob. Mount Chorbed itself is located between the Kharangon Gorge and the 21 km Gorge, meaning between the Kharangon and Darifanfarok rivers, respectively. The mountain is not very high, and you can ascend it via several routes. We decided to climb Mount Chorbed through the village of Fanfarok. To do this, we got out of a marshrutka in the village of Shaftimichgon, near the gas station, right where the trail leading to the village of Fanfarok begins.

Chapter 18: In the Spiral of Search from Bear Metamorphoses

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The following days blurred into one another. Each morning, I shifted into the wolf and roamed the surrounding area. I had divided the territory into sectors and chose one each day, combing through it in a spiral pattern, increasing the radius as I moved further from the center of the settlement. I ended up with eight sectors—and for eight days, I ran through them. But even this thorough search yielded nothing. The only positive was that I learned a great deal about the lives of these snow people.

Hiking to Mount Fang along the ridge between the Odzhuk and Begar gorges, Varzob, Tajikistan

I first wanted to hike this route when we were returning from another trip. I got curious back then whether it was even possible – to walk the entire ridge and descend straight to the village of Varzob. We didn't have time on that hike, so we just descended to the fourth bridge in Odzhuk. But the curiosity remained, and last Saturday I decided to check out this route. It is, of course, doable, but I want to make an important note.

Chapter 17: The Enigmatic Killer Spirit from Bear Metamorphoses

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The journey took a couple of hours. We walked along the far-left tributary—if looking from the center where the streams converged to form the main channel of the Ziddy River. Ugh, I keep slipping into the familiar names, but this isn’t the river I know. The dwellings of the settlement stretched almost to the eternal snow line, falling just short of it. This was truly a remote place, set apart from the main cluster of homes. The distances between them were even greater here. There must have been a reason for that, though such dispersion only worked in the killer’s favor.

New Year's Tree 2019 on Somoni Square, Dushanbe, Tajikistan

The capital of Tajikistan, the city of Dushanbe, is already anticipating the New Year 2019. A large New Year's tree has been installed on Ismoili Somoni Square, and on New Year's Eve, a festive concert will traditionally be held near it. But they didn't just put up the New Year's tree; the whole city is decorated festively with colorful lights, garlands, and shimmering illuminations everywhere. Everything is very beautiful, magical, and you can't help but start expecting a miracle. The feeling of the holiday is literally in the air.

Chapter 16: The Settlement of the Snow People from Bear Metamorphoses

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After sitting and thinking on the spur, I descended back into the gorge where Uga was waiting for me. He showed no signs of impatience — he just sat there, staring into nothingness. Interesting, are they all this calm, or is my escort just special? As soon as I descended, he silently stood up and walked in the direction he had intended before I climbed the spur, turning right.

Mountain Spirits in Tajikistan, Myth or Part of Cultural Heritage

In Tajikistan, like in many other countries, there are myths and legends about mountain spirits. These creatures possess supernatural abilities and are considered guardians of mountainous areas. Just a few commonly accepted descriptions of mountain spirits will be given as an example. However, in reality, such legends and myths exist in every region, so there are many variations of mountain spirits in these stories. The most famous mountain spirits in Tajikistan and their brief descriptions are given below.

Javonon Park, Komsomol Lake, Dushanbe City, Tajikistan

There is currently a significant amount of construction underway in Dushanbe, causing the city's appearance to rapidly change. The construction has affected almost all of the city's parks, but I would like to focus on Javonon Park near Komsomol Lake. The lake is now known as Javonon, but I am more familiar with its previous name, as are many others. The park used to have Soviet-era merry-go-rounds, impromptu cafes, and barbecues, which left a depressing impression. However, the park has now been transformed into a beautiful, open, and spacious cultural and recreational park that is perfect for strolling, relaxing, and enjoying the scenery.

Chapter 15: Encounter with the Snowman from Bear Metamorphoses

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Upon waking, I lay motionless for a few moments, scanning my surroundings. Everything seemed normal; the warning ward hadn't been triggered. I crawled out of the tent and went about my usual morning routine. The entire time I was doing my warm-up exercises, drinking coffee, and breaking camp, nothing happened, and I no longer felt that foreign attention. Alright, time to move on.

Mountain Paradise for Hiking in Tajikistan

Tajikistan is one of the most mountainous countries in the world. The majority of its territory is located within an extensive mountain range formed by several mountain systems. There are many stunning mountainous areas here that attract tourists from all over the world. Mountain hiking in Tajikistan is an unforgettable adventure that allows you to enjoy the beauty of the mountain nature and feel the spirit of freedom and adventure.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

I have planned several big hikes for the season. In anticipation of these hikes, it's time to start getting into proper shape. That's why I did this kind of training hike-crossing from the Chayka gorge to the Odjuk gorge. I chose this short route because it consists only of going up and down, without any long treks. You get off the minibus near the former "Chayka" pioneer camp, then it's up, up, up, a stop for lunch and rest, and then down, down, down, straight to the bridge near the department store in the village of Varzob. Convenient, quick, a good workout for the first time, and I was home by about four o'clock.