Chapter 13: Return to Iskanderkul from Bear Metamorphoses

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To get back to my previous route, I needed to get to Iskanderkul. Early in the morning, I drove to the taxi stand where you can hire a car for trips north of the city. The difficulty was that I was alone, and drivers prefer a full car. Of course, I could buy out all the seats, but for long distances, that gets expensive. I could pay, but such behavior is unusual, so I decided to look for fellow travelers.

The Perilous Beauty of Lake Sarez. Pamir, Tajikistan

Some natural landmarks are officially off-limits to the public. One such place is the mysterious and formidable Lake Sarez in Tajikistan. A permit from the Committee for Emergency Situations is required for a visit, though I cannot judge how strictly this rule is enforced—I personally haven't been there yet. But I very much wanted to tell the story of this unique and incredibly beautiful lake. To do so, I have gathered information and photographs from open sources. Its poetic name—"The Sleeping Dragon"—perfectly reflects its pristine beauty and hidden threat.

Chapter 7: The Roads of the Pamirs from Bear Metamorphoses

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After descending a bit lower, I found a cozy little clearing. It was warmer here. I decided to rest and figure out my route. I transformed, took out my phone to look at the maps, and saw—a missed call from Shams. I called him back immediately.

Chapter 6: The Curse of the Circle of Darkness from Bear Metamorphoses

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Judging by the tracks, the Englishman, possessed by the jondor, after crossing the ridge, didn't descend but turned west. The altitude here, by the way, was considerable. A snow-covered section ran along the ridge's edge. After passing it, he turned. His path ran below the snow line but was still high up. Given how fast he was moving, one could only marvel at the Englishman's physical conditioning, whose name, incidentally, I still hadn't bothered to learn. If he continued like this without changing direction, he would eventually come out to a section of the highway between Ishkashim and Khorog. That road also ran along the border. Surely he wasn't going back to Afghanistan? That would be too much!

Chapter 5: Back Across the Panj from Bear Metamorphoses

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It became clear I wouldn't catch the group before they crossed the river and the border. The road from the Panjshir Gorge came out to the Panj River opposite Ishkashim. The Englishmen had turned right and driven along the Afghan bank towards Khandud. Theoretically, they could now cross at any point—they just needed to ford the river. But logically, they would wait for darkness. They didn't just need to cross; they needed to go somewhere further. Bek said they had taken mountain equipment, meaning they might be heading into the mountains. They could enter the mountains in numerous places, provided they knew them. And they did know—they had a guide.

Chapter 4: On Chicken Street in Kabul from Bear Metamorphoses

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On the Afghan side of the Panj, just like on the Tajik side, there was a small settlement near the bridge. To avoid being seen, I didn't approach it but immediately headed towards the road. Of the main roads, only one led south from the bridge—first to Kunduz, and then on to Kabul. I ran alongside this road, not getting too close, but not losing sight of it either.

Chapter 3: The Pursuit Continues from Bear Metamorphoses

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Nursultan, the driver who had taken the Englishmen to the city, didn't show up until the next morning. He said he'd arrived during the night and needed to rest. I was glad he'd appeared at all—he could have simply gone about his business and never come. I asked him about the Englishmen. He said he'd dropped them off at the "Sheraton." He also mentioned they had argued the entire way, especially the red-haired one, who seemed to be fighting with everyone. There were four of them, including the redhead. Nursultan left them at the hotel; he didn't know what they did after that because he went straight to the taxi stand. This stand was in the northern part of the city, the only place he could find passengers for the return trip in the direction he needed.

Chapter 2: The Lake of Spirits from Bear Metamorphoses

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My path now led to another point of interest—Lake Payron, also known as the Lake of the Peris. Another name is the Lake of Fairies or Spirits. It refers to the beautiful peris, spirits from Eastern folklore who always appear to humans in the form of alluring women. Peris more or less correspond to fairies in Western tradition, though those are usually small, while peris are human-sized. In principle, it's all mythology—where does one find exact correspondences?

Chapter 1: The Gorge of Fear from Bear Metamorphoses

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I only drank coffee in the morning—I wasn't hungry. I packed up the tent, stowed everything in my backpack, and headed back to the trail. I went down along the old caravan route. By evening, I was in the village, found a guesthouse—there turned out to be several here. I chose the one on the eastern side. Later, I would need to head east anyway, to the abandoned settlement—rumors were circulating about strange happenings there. But all that could wait; for now, I needed to recover. And that meant meat and alcohol.

Prologue: The Ice Witch’s Lake from Bear Metamorphoses

The going was tough—the altitude was taking its toll. I had walked about fifty meters down from the highest point of the pass saddle and found the spot where the creature had presumably attacked its victim. For now, we’ll just call it a creature. We’ll figure out what it really is later. So, the attack site was identified: a rocky outcrop jutted above the trail, perfect for an ambush. I examined it—just as I thought. I found a secluded niche from which a stale, nauseating smell emanated. It was logical to assume the creature had been coming here from the eastern side of the road.

How to Estimate Time and Distance on a Hike

Figuring out how many kilometers you need to cover and how long it will take are crucial questions when planning an expedition. We're used to road signs and speedometers telling us where we are in a car. On a hike, we'd like to know that too.
Unfortunately, it's not that simple—measuring distance in steps, especially over rough terrain, is monotonous and tedious. A map can show the total distance to your destination, but it doesn't account for hills, gullies, and other obstacles that add extra kilometers. So, distance can only be estimated. However, there are situations where a rough calculation of time and distance is not only useful but necessary.

How to Read a Map Correctly and Plan the Perfect Route

In the United Kingdom, you have access to excellent maps created by the Military Topographic Service. However, not all maps are of such high quality, so you must learn to extract the maximum amount of information from them. To do this, you need to master topographic symbols.

The Skill of Land Navigation: Working with a Compass and Map

The ability to determine your location is a key skill for any traveler. It distinguishes a prepared individual from an ordinary nature enthusiast and can be critical in an emergency. This is important not only in remote wilderness areas but in any terrain where one faces the elements. Confident navigation is the key to a successful trip.

Teamwork: How to Make a Hike Successful

Whether you're staying at a stationary camp with many people or have stopped for the night with a small group on a trek, you should always feel like part of a team. I have spent a lot of time traveling in small groups through the planet's most severe environments.

Maintaining General Hygiene on a Camping Trip

While each person is responsible for their own personal hygiene, when in a camp or on a hike, everyone must also be accountable for communal, or general, hygiene.

Waste Disposal

When setting up camp, designate a waste collection area with separate zones for kitchen wastewater, biodegradable waste, and non-biodegradable waste.

Personal Hygiene in Camping Conditions

The word "hygiene" originates from the name of the ancient Greek goddess of health, Hygieia. And this is no coincidence, as maintaining cleanliness is not just a matter of convenience, but the foundation of well-being, especially when away from home. In camping or stationary camp conditions, where people are in close contact, any infection spreads rapidly. It only takes one person to fall ill to jeopardize the entire group's outing. Therefore, hygiene rules in nature are a matter of collective safety and comfort.

"Iron" Rations: What to Take on a Hike for an Emergency

When heading out on a hike, it's important to anticipate unforeseen circumstances, such as running out of provisions. For this very reason, experienced hikers have an "emergency reserve" — special foods that provide a lot of slowly released energy, are lightweight, and have a long shelf life. Classic examples of this "iron" ration, tried and tested by scouts and travelers, are pemmican and pinole. They are quick to prepare, can be stored for years, and can help you endure a difficult situation.

Hydration on the Trail: How to Find, Purify, and Drink Water Correctly

The human body is resilient, but without water, it cannot survive more than a few days. Water forms the foundation of our bodies and is involved in all vital processes. We lose over 3 liters of fluid daily, and under hiking conditions—due to physical exertion, heat, cold, and altitude—these losses increase significantly. Replenishing them is a top priority.

How to Choose the Right Food for a Hike

The choice of food for a hike depends entirely on your itinerary and ability to carry gear. If you're backpacking and covering long distances on foot, the priority is lightweight, compact food. For a stationary basecamp accessible by car, you can afford a much wider and heavier range of provisions.

Why Hot Food on the Trail is a Necessity

You can survive on cold rations, but a hot meal at the end of the day truly warms you up, restores your energy, and boosts your spirits. It becomes a crucial element of survival, helps a team bond around the fire, and provides the strength to overcome challenges. Furthermore, heat treatment not only makes food tastier but also sanitizes it by killing harmful microbes and toxins. Knowing how to cook in the wild is key to staying healthy and feeling good.