Waterfall in the Stone Sack, Kharangoni Ridge, Varzob, Tajikistan

I had known about this waterfall for a long time, but I never managed to see it. The thing is, the waterfall can only be seen in the spring. By June it dries up, and in its place is only a black wall – black because it's damp, as some water still seeps through constantly. I first visited this place as a child at the "Cosmos" pioneer camp, which was located nearby, sometime in the early 80s. It was from this pioneer camp that a big hike involving several groups was organized to the "Stone Sack," as this place is called.

«Who’s There?»: Irrational Fear in the Mountains

In the previous articles of this series, we talked about why solitude in the mountains is a conscious choice, went over general safety rules, what to do “when things go wrong”, and discussed how to behave when encountering wild animals.
But let’s be honest: the scariest “beast” in a solo hike is our own imagination. And the fear it creates is often irrational. Logic is powerless here.

Hills Behind Victory Park in Dushanbe, Tajikistan

Decided to take a walk to the hills behind Victory Park. Overall, the hike didn't go very well, I chose the wrong time, didn't equip myself properly. Also, I didn't fully decide on the final destination of the route, just stood up and started walking. Of course, I didn't get anywhere. As Seneca said: For a ship without a destination, no wind is favorable. In the end, I sat on the top of one of the hills and then went back. I didn't feel like taking photos anymore. Interestingly, when you are not interested, nothing interesting comes your way... haha, that's life.

Alone in Trouble: What to Do When Everything Goes Wrong?

Imagine the worst‑case scenario: you’re alone in the mountains. You get caught in a prolonged downpour, a mudslide sweeps down, or you simply lose the trail. Your smartphone is smashed or drowned, your map is gone, there’s no signal. You don’t know exactly where you are, and there’s no one to expect help from. At that moment, your life depends on only one person—yourself. There’s no room for illusions.

Hiking to the 21 km Gorge for herbs, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

This time, I decided not to do a photo review like I usually do, for the simple reason that there are already more than enough photo reviews from this gorge. However, since we did go on a hike, I think I should post something. In this post, I've shared photos of myself in a somewhat humorous context. Well, maybe it's only funny to me; judge for yourselves... :) First, for the sake of completeness, I'll provide links to the photo reviews I've already done of this gorge.

Epilogue: Ghurs and Ghurali from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
Surprisingly, Luka didn't show up right away. A couple of weeks later, I visited the snow people's settlement again and began my training in handling the stones. Sometimes the Tribal Leader worked with me, other times, other shamans did. As it turned out, there were several of them here, each with their own specialization. Each shared their own knowledge, but I grasped the main point: they didn't perform any complex rituals; they simply communicated with the stones, each according to their task.

What diseases you should know about before going on a mountain trek

When preparing for a trek, we usually think about routes, weather, and gear. But health is a traveler's most important asset, and in the mountains, it faces unique challenges. Far from civilization, with changing climates and high altitude, your body experiences stress. In some countries, particularly in Asia or Africa, you may also encounter infectious environments unfamiliar to you.

Wild Animals: How to Avoid Becoming "Dinner" and Part Ways in Peace

Many beginners haunt their own imaginations with grisly scenes: hungry wolves lying in ambush or a bear specifically stalking a tourist around the next bend in the trail. Let me ease your mind: you are not on the menu. To a wild animal, a human is a strange, loud creature that smells like "chemicals" (laundry detergent, deodorant, or a gas stove). In 99% of cases, animals scent you from hundreds of meters away and quietly slip into the brush. They want to meet you even less than you want to meet them.

The Siyoma Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

The Siyoma River Gorge is situated 54 kilometers along the Varzob highway, almost directly opposite the Varzob Climbing Camp. It is a popular destination for mountain hikers and on weekends, both local residents of Dushanbe and visitors from other cities and countries can often be found here. The Siyoma River starts at an elevation of 1782 meters above sea level, at its confluence with the Varzob River near the road, and rises to 3000-3200 meters in its upper reaches.

Chapter 21: Homecoming from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
I woke in the morning, rose from the bed, and felt literally overflowing with energy. It seemed if I jumped, I might just fly. But I didn't jump—who knows, I might actually take off, and then I'd have to live with that. Instead, I looked around. My gaze fell on the tub of moonshine, and I shuddered. Ugh, what vile stuff this homebrew... I mean, moonshine is. I pulled myself together and stepped out of the dwelling.

First Aid on a Hike: Burns, Overheating, and Hypothermia

Our body is an amazing system that can effectively maintain a constant temperature. And there are good reasons for this. As I already wrote in the guide on temperature conditions, the critical threshold for a person ranges from 28.8 °C (fatal hypothermia) to 42.7 °C (fatal overheating). But even a slight deviation from the ideal 36.8 °C makes us feel extremely uncomfortable.

Alone in the Mountains: "Aren't You Scared?"

In the comments on my previous post, a question kept coming up: "Aren't you scared alone? It's so risky!"
I'll be honest: fear is normal. It's a basic survival mechanism. On a solo trek, it doesn't disappear—it transforms into heightened caution. When there's no group behind you, the responsibility for every decision rests solely on you. And that keeps you disciplined.

Hike to Mount Olam Jakhon, between Varzob and Romit, Tajikistan

I first saw this mountain while hiking the Odjuk Ring route. At the same time, I also first heard the name "Olam Jakhon" from a local guy I met along the way. At that moment, I didn't believe him. If you translate the name into Russian, the closest meaning of the phrase "Olam Jakhon" would probably be Universe (World of worlds). So I doubted it, thinking maybe the guy decided to "slightly" embellish or just didn't know the name.

Chapter 20: The Div, the Raven, and the Log from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
The next morning, an unexpected problem arose: I couldn't decide what to take with me. The ingredients for catching the unknown spirit were clear enough, but the rest... Packing for a full-scale expedition seemed pointless—I had a place to stay in the settlement, and they'd feed me if necessary. However, the journey was through the mountains, and it was better to be safe than sorry. So I sat there, racking my brains about what to take and which backpack to pack it all in. I could manage with a small one, but what if I needed extra space?