How to Navigate by the Sun on a Hike

Navigating by the sun is a classic and reliable method for determining direction when modern tools aren't available. You can master it using simple objects: a stick or a regular analog watch.

All Ten Bridges in the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

On the last day of my hike, I trekked through the Odjuk Gorge from the Kumkayakutal Pass to the village of Varzob. I took this opportunity to dedicate a photo review to the ten bridges that now span the gorge. Previously known as the "Gorge of the Seven Bridges" among tourists, the presence of these ten bridges is a welcome sight compared to the Semiganch Gorge, where no bridges exist, and I had to jump over stones to cross the river.

Chapter 6: The Curse of the Circle of Darkness from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
Judging by the tracks, the Englishman, possessed by the jondor, after crossing the ridge, didn't descend but turned west. The altitude here, by the way, was considerable. A snow-covered section ran along the ridge's edge. After passing it, he turned. His path ran below the snow line but was still high up. Given how fast he was moving, one could only marvel at the Englishman's physical conditioning, whose name, incidentally, I still hadn't bothered to learn. If he continued like this without changing direction, he would eventually come out to a section of the highway between Ishkashim and Khorog. That road also ran along the border. Surely he wasn't going back to Afghanistan? That would be too much!

Celestial Navigation: How to Find Your Way by the Stars

Celestial navigation, or astronavigation, is one of the oldest methods for determining one's location. Long before the invention of maps, compasses, and GPS, people charted their course by the heavens. This technique was particularly vital for sailors, who, lacking landmarks in the open ocean, relied on the Moon and 57 navigational stars to plot their route.

Kumkayakutal Pass, 3-Day Hike, Semiganch Gorge, Romit, Mountains of Tajikistan

This is a photo review of the third day of my four-day trek from Kharangon to Ojuk through the Semiganch Gorge. In the last photo review, I stopped at the moment when I descended from Mount Mushteppa to the village of Dora. In the kishlak, I visited Faiz, reloaded my camera, had a delicious and filling lunch, and rested a bit from the hardships of camp life. Then, I continued along the river in the Semiganch Gorge towards the Kumkayakutal Pass in the Romit region. Once I pass the pass, I'll find myself in the Odjuk Gorge in the Varzob region..

Chapter 5: Back Across the Panj from Bear Metamorphoses

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It became clear I wouldn't catch the group before they crossed the river and the border. The road from the Panjshir Gorge came out to the Panj River opposite Ishkashim. The Englishmen had turned right and driven along the Afghan bank towards Khandud. Theoretically, they could now cross at any point—they just needed to ford the river. But logically, they would wait for darkness. They didn't just need to cross; they needed to go somewhere further. Bek said they had taken mountain equipment, meaning they might be heading into the mountains. They could enter the mountains in numerous places, provided they knew them. And they did know—they had a guide.

A Hiking Navigator: An Indispensable Assistant, But Not a Replacement for Skills

Originally developed for military purposes by the U.S. Department of Defense, GPS navigators were once secret technology for special forces. Today, they have become a standard part of everyday life, a common feature in cars and even smartphones.

Mount Mushtepa, Day 2 of the Hike, is a Ridge Between the Varzob and Ramit Gorges, Mountains of Tajikistan

The second day of my four-day hike was entirely dedicated to Mount Mushtepa. Mount Mushtepa is located on the watershed ridge between the Varzob and Ramit rivers, so on this day, I visited both of them. I began the ascent on the Varzob side in the Harangon River gorge, and by midday, I had reached the summit of Mushtepa before descending to the Ramit side in the Semiganch gorge.

Chapter 4: On Chicken Street in Kabul from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
On the Afghan side of the Panj, just like on the Tajik side, there was a small settlement near the bridge. To avoid being seen, I didn't approach it but immediately headed towards the road. Of the main roads, only one led south from the bridge—first to Kunduz, and then on to Kabul. I ran alongside this road, not getting too close, but not losing sight of it either.

How to Estimate Time and Distance on a Hike

Figuring out how many kilometers you need to cover and how long it will take are crucial questions when planning an expedition. We're used to road signs and speedometers telling us where we are in a car. On a hike, we'd like to know that too.
Unfortunately, it's not that simple—measuring distance in steps, especially over rough terrain, is monotonous and tedious. A map can show the total distance to your destination, but it doesn't account for hills, gullies, and other obstacles that add extra kilometers. So, distance can only be estimated. However, there are situations where a rough calculation of time and distance is not only useful but necessary.