A Hiking Navigator: An Indispensable Assistant, But Not a Replacement for Skills

Originally developed for military purposes by the U.S. Department of Defense, GPS navigators were once secret technology for special forces. Today, they have become a standard part of everyday life, a common feature in cars and even smartphones.

Mount Mushtepa, Day 2 of the Hike, is a Ridge Between the Varzob and Ramit Gorges, Mountains of Tajikistan

The second day of my four-day hike was entirely dedicated to Mount Mushtepa. Mount Mushtepa is located on the watershed ridge between the Varzob and Ramit rivers, so on this day, I visited both of them. I began the ascent on the Varzob side in the Harangon River gorge, and by midday, I had reached the summit of Mushtepa before descending to the Ramit side in the Semiganch gorge.

Chapter 4: On Chicken Street in Kabul from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
On the Afghan side of the Panj, just like on the Tajik side, there was a small settlement near the bridge. To avoid being seen, I didn't approach it but immediately headed towards the road. Of the main roads, only one led south from the bridge—first to Kunduz, and then on to Kabul. I ran alongside this road, not getting too close, but not losing sight of it either.

How to Estimate Time and Distance on a Hike

Figuring out how many kilometers you need to cover and how long it will take are crucial questions when planning an expedition. We're used to road signs and speedometers telling us where we are in a car. On a hike, we'd like to know that too.
Unfortunately, it's not that simple—measuring distance in steps, especially over rough terrain, is monotonous and tedious. A map can show the total distance to your destination, but it doesn't account for hills, gullies, and other obstacles that add extra kilometers. So, distance can only be estimated. However, there are situations where a rough calculation of time and distance is not only useful but necessary.

The Harangoni Gorge and Ridge, a One-Day Trek, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

So, I decided to go on a hike, during which I planned to visit places such as the Harangoni Ridge, climb Mount Mushtepa, descend from the mountain into the Semiganch Gorge, and hike through it to the Kumkayakutal Pass. After crossing the pass, I would end up in the Ojuk Gorge and hike through it all the way to the village of Varzob. I fully completed this route plan in four days. This is a photo overview of the first day of the hike.

Chapter 3: The Pursuit Continues from Bear Metamorphoses

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Nursultan, the driver who had taken the Englishmen to the city, didn't show up until the next morning. He said he'd arrived during the night and needed to rest. I was glad he'd appeared at all—he could have simply gone about his business and never come. I asked him about the Englishmen. He said he'd dropped them off at the "Sheraton." He also mentioned they had argued the entire way, especially the red-haired one, who seemed to be fighting with everyone. There were four of them, including the redhead. Nursultan left them at the hotel; he didn't know what they did after that because he went straight to the taxi stand. This stand was in the northern part of the city, the only place he could find passengers for the return trip in the direction he needed.

How to Read a Map Correctly and Plan the Perfect Route

In the United Kingdom, you have access to excellent maps created by the Military Topographic Service. However, not all maps are of such high quality, so you must learn to extract the maximum amount of information from them. To do this, you need to master topographic symbols.

A Whisper from the Netherworld - Short story

The five of them trekked through the gorge alongside a narrow mountain river. The path zigzagged capriciously, and the frequent rocky outcrops often rendered the banks impassable. They had to cross the river again and again, ford its cold currents time after time. But no one complained. These were wild, uninhabited lands—who would build bridges here? And that was precisely what they had wanted: to get as far away as possible, into the deepest backcountry. So, they all jumped across the slippery stones with enthusiasm, conquering each watery obstacle.

Hiking to the Peak of Gushor, Varzob Gorge, Mountains of Tajikistan

The peak of Gushor is well visible from any point in Dushanbe. I have been planning to climb it for a long time, and finally I did it. The mountain, or rather the peak of Gushor, is one of the peaks that crown the Chilikak ridge. This ridge stretches from the Varzob River (approximately 16-21 kilometers from the Varzob highway) to the Luchob River in the area of the village of Shiratalo. The Gushor peak (2450 meters) is not the highest point of the Chilikak ridge; there is another peak with a weather station above it (2552 meters), another unnamed peak (2606 meters), and the highest point, the Chilokak peak (2702 meters), which is already closer to Shiratalo and cannot be seen from the city.

Chapter 2: The Lake of Spirits from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
My path now led to another point of interest—Lake Payron, also known as the Lake of the Peris. Another name is the Lake of Fairies or Spirits. It refers to the beautiful peris, spirits from Eastern folklore who always appear to humans in the form of alluring women. Peris more or less correspond to fairies in Western tradition, though those are usually small, while peris are human-sized. In principle, it's all mythology—where does one find exact correspondences?

The Skill of Land Navigation: Working with a Compass and Map

The ability to determine your location is a key skill for any traveler. It distinguishes a prepared individual from an ordinary nature enthusiast and can be critical in an emergency. This is important not only in remote wilderness areas but in any terrain where one faces the elements. Confident navigation is the key to a successful trip.

Hiking to the Waterfalls in Voru Gorge, Odzhuk, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

The first hike of the year, I decided to go to the waterfalls in the Voru Gorge in Odjukskie Mountains, Varzob district, Tajikistan. Previously, I called it the Lost Waterfall. Of course, no one lost this waterfall, but it needed a name, so why not call it Lost? I had already seen it a couple of times before, once when we descended from the ridge that lies between Takob and Odjuk on this hike: Crossing from the Begar Gorge to Odjuk. At that time, I thought I should go to this waterfall, and the convenient moment finally arrived. I also thought it was the only one there, but there were other waterfalls, though smaller.

Chapter 1: The Gorge of Fear from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
I only drank coffee in the morning—I wasn't hungry. I packed up the tent, stowed everything in my backpack, and headed back to the trail. I went down along the old caravan route. By evening, I was in the village, found a guesthouse—there turned out to be several here. I chose the one on the eastern side. Later, I would need to head east anyway, to the abandoned settlement—rumors were circulating about strange happenings there. But all that could wait; for now, I needed to recover. And that meant meat and alcohol.