Chapter 13: Return to Iskanderkul from Bear Metamorphoses

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To get back to my previous route, I needed to get to Iskanderkul. Early in the morning, I drove to the taxi stand where you can hire a car for trips north of the city. The difficulty was that I was alone, and drivers prefer a full car. Of course, I could buy out all the seats, but for long distances, that gets expensive. I could pay, but such behavior is unusual, so I decided to look for fellow travelers.

Chapter 12: One's Own Place from Bear Metamorphoses

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Five days had passed since Luka and I returned from the bog. Gradually, the putrid aftertaste of the Navka's energy faded away. The most surprising consequence of that event for me was that I didn't want to eat at all. At first, I chalked it up to nausea, but that passed. Luka went around chuckling, explaining nothing in advance. When I finally asked him directly, he deigned to explain.

Chapter 11: The Bog Hunt from Bear Metamorphoses

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For three more mornings, Luka made me change my form. He demanded I speed up the process. In the end, the transformation became almost instantaneous. But Luka wasn't satisfied, forcing me to do it again and again — sitting, standing, walking, running.

Chapter 10: Luka's Vixen from Bear Metamorphoses

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Of course, Luka was already waiting for me, always knowing in advance when I would arrive. He was sitting on the porch, tinkering with something as usual. When I approached, he lifted his head.
"Well, there you are. Have some kvass after your journey," he nodded towards a jug standing in the shade.
I happily downed a cup.

Chapter 9: The Bear Amulet from Bear Metamorphoses

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I spent a couple of days at Luka's homestead, helping him with chores a bit, but we didn't really talk about anything important. Luka was constantly occupied with some object, fussing over it tirelessly, whispering something to it. I didn't ask questions, deciding that if he wanted to, he would have told me himself. If he was silent, there was a reason. I didn't see the bear during those days; after our memorable meeting, he had gone back into the forest.

The Perilous Beauty of Lake Sarez. Pamir, Tajikistan

Some natural landmarks are officially off-limits to the public. One such place is the mysterious and formidable Lake Sarez in Tajikistan. A permit from the Committee for Emergency Situations is required for a visit, though I cannot judge how strictly this rule is enforced—I personally haven't been there yet. But I very much wanted to tell the story of this unique and incredibly beautiful lake. To do so, I have gathered information and photographs from open sources. Its poetic name—"The Sleeping Dragon"—perfectly reflects its pristine beauty and hidden threat.

«I See You» – The Depth We're Missing

In the movie Avatar, the Na'vi people have no direct equivalent for the phrase "I love you." Instead, they use the expression "Oel ngati kameie" — "I see you." They say it in moments of deep spiritual connection, when one person truly understands and accepts the very essence of another.

This phrase has stayed with me. And here’s why.

Chapter 8: In the Dread Murom Forest from Bear Metamorphoses

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It was supposed to be a fishing trip, but it turned into a regular booze-up in the great outdoors, as often happens with men escaping the watchful eyes of their wives. One of my colleagues, who was from a local village near Kirov, had talked us all into going to a river aptly named Krivaya, or "Crooked." As Vysotsky sang: "In the reserved and dense, dreadful Murom forests, all sorts of unclean beings wander in hordes and sow fear in passersby."

Chapter 7: The Roads of the Pamirs from Bear Metamorphoses

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After descending a bit lower, I found a cozy little clearing. It was warmer here. I decided to rest and figure out my route. I transformed, took out my phone to look at the maps, and saw—a missed call from Shams. I called him back immediately.

Chapter 6: The Curse of the Circle of Darkness from Bear Metamorphoses

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Judging by the tracks, the Englishman, possessed by the jondor, after crossing the ridge, didn't descend but turned west. The altitude here, by the way, was considerable. A snow-covered section ran along the ridge's edge. After passing it, he turned. His path ran below the snow line but was still high up. Given how fast he was moving, one could only marvel at the Englishman's physical conditioning, whose name, incidentally, I still hadn't bothered to learn. If he continued like this without changing direction, he would eventually come out to a section of the highway between Ishkashim and Khorog. That road also ran along the border. Surely he wasn't going back to Afghanistan? That would be too much!