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Where Stones Breathe: Truth and Fiction about the Mountain Spirits of Tajikistan

Where Stones Breathe: Truth and Fiction about the Mountain Spirits of Tajikistan
The mountainous landscape of Tajikistan is far more than a jumble of rocky peaks and deep gorges. For local people, it is the borderland where the human world ends and the realm of "invisible beings" begins. Myths about mountain spirits are not a relic of paganism; they are the living fabric of a culture, woven into daily life, traditions, and even the unwritten rules of travel.

Javonon Park, Komsomol Lake, Dushanbe City, Tajikistan

Javonon Park, Komsomol Lake, and Dushanbe City in Tajikistan
There is currently a significant amount of construction underway in Dushanbe, causing the city's appearance to rapidly change. The construction has affected almost all of the city's parks, but I would like to focus on Javonon Park near Komsomol Lake. The lake is now known as Javonon, but I am more familiar with its previous name, as are many others. The park used to have Soviet-era merry-go-rounds, impromptu cafes, and barbecues, which left a depressing impression. However, the park has now been transformed into a beautiful, open, and spacious cultural and recreational park that is perfect for strolling, relaxing, and enjoying the scenery.

Chapter 15: Encounter with the Snowman from Bear Metamorphoses

Chapter 15: Encounter with the Snowman from Bear Metamorphoses
≪ to the previous chapter
Upon waking, I lay motionless for a few moments, scanning my surroundings. Everything seemed normal; the warning ward hadn't been triggered. I crawled out of the tent and went about my usual morning routine. The entire time I was doing my warm-up exercises, drinking coffee, and breaking camp, nothing happened, and I no longer felt that foreign attention. Alright, time to move on.

Mountain Hiking in Tajikistan: From the Pamirs to the Fann Mountains

Mountain Hiking in Tajikistan: From the Pamirs to the Fann Mountains
Tajikistan is one of the most mountainous countries on Earth. Most of its territory is covered by mighty ranges that draw travellers from every corner of the globe. Hiking here is not just a sport – it’s a rendezvous with wild nature, the thrill of altitude, and a genuine sense of freedom.

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

The Crossing from Chayka to the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan
I have planned several big hikes for the season. In anticipation of these hikes, it's time to start getting into proper shape. That's why I did this kind of training hike-crossing from the Chayka gorge to the Odjuk gorge. I chose this short route because it consists only of going up and down, without any long treks. You get off the minibus near the former "Chayka" pioneer camp, then it's up, up, up, a stop for lunch and rest, and then down, down, down, straight to the bridge near the department store in the village of Varzob. Convenient, quick, a good workout for the first time, and I was home by about four o'clock.

Chapter 14: The Spirit of Bear Gate from Bear Metamorphoses

Chapter 14: The Spirit of Bear Gate from Bear Metamorphoses
≪ to the previous chapter
They say no morning is truly good. On a hike, after yesterday's climbs, you feel that to the fullest. Muscles are stiff, the body craves rest, but ahead lies a new day and new summits. To shake off the stiffness, I performed my signature warm-up routine — a set of exercises from different systems, tailored personally for me. While the water boiled, I prepared breakfast: mixed muesli with powdered milk and protein powder, poured boiling water over it. Stretched properly, sat down to eat. By then, the porridge had settled, and the fatigue was completely gone. Washed it all down with sweet coffee — now I was ready for new feats. Sounds a bit pompous, but maintaining a battle-ready mood is necessary — a hunt might be on the agenda today.

Navruz — New Day: How Spring is Welcomed from Dushanbe to Tokyo

Навруз — Новый день: как встречают весну от Душанбе до Токио
Every year, on March 21, when night equals day, our planet pauses in anticipation of a miracle. The spring equinox is not just an astronomical event — it is an ancient threshold, beyond which nature sheds the shackles of winter and the world enters a new cycle of life. This day is known in many corners of the Earth, but perhaps the most vibrant and heartfelt traditions belong to the peoples of Central Asia and the Middle East. In Tajikistan, it is called Navruz, which from Persian literally means «new day».

Jam Session and Painting Exhibition, Tapioka, Dushanbe, Tajikistan

Джем-сейшен и выставка живописи, Тапиока, Душанбе, Таджикистан
It was a kind of unique mix of musical improvisation and the paintings of young female artists. A very interesting idea, well executed. Attending this event at the Tapioka coffee house, in the center of Dushanbe, Tajikistan, was a very interesting experience. The atmosphere was one of creative chaos and spontaneity, with bright and original paintings by young artists placed all around, and fiery, exciting improvisations by the musical performers – in short, eclecticism in its purest form. Let's just say, this combination was particularly stirring, charging you with a unique kind of energy. It even made me a little sad that I can neither paint nor sing – insert sad smiley here...

Chapter 13: Return to Iskanderkul from Bear Metamorphoses

Chapter 13: Return to Iskanderkul from Bear Metamorphoses
≪ to the previous chapter
To get back to my previous route, I needed to get to Iskanderkul. Early in the morning, I drove to the taxi stand where you can hire a car for trips north of the city. The difficulty was that I was alone, and drivers prefer a full car. Of course, I could buy out all the seats, but for long distances, that gets expensive. I could pay, but such behavior is unusual, so I decided to look for fellow travelers.

Mountains Heal: How Hiking Transforms Your Body and Mind

Mountains Heal: How Hiking Transforms Your Body and Mind
Mountain hiking isn't just active leisure. It's a chance to escape the stuffy city, test yourself, and come back buzzing with energy. And yes — it literally changes you on a cellular level. Let's break down what happens to your body and mind when you head up the slopes. And also — how to prepare so you don't hurt yourself.

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