Exhibition of Irina Dmitrieva-Vann, Serena, Dushanbe, Tajikistan

In Dushanbe, from March 8 to April 8, a solo exhibition of Irina Dmitrieva-Vann is taking place at the Serena Hotel. The official opening ceremony of the exhibition was held on the festive day of March 8. I decided not to miss the opportunity to get acquainted with the work of this remarkable artist and went to this event, especially since I was free at that time. Based on my visit to the exhibition and the opening ceremony, I put together a small photo review, which I am happy to share.

Chapter 12: One's Own Place from Bear Metamorphoses

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Five days had passed since Luka and I returned from the bog. Gradually, the putrid aftertaste of the Navka's energy faded away. The most surprising consequence of that event for me was that I didn't want to eat at all. At first, I chalked it up to nausea, but that passed. Luka went around chuckling, explaining nothing in advance. When I finally asked him directly, he deigned to explain.

Whose Tracks? How to Read Hidden Animal Signs

Tracking is a true art. It takes more than just looking at the ground — you need to understand animal behavior, decipher prints, and know where to look for each forest dweller. The tracker's golden rule: study the theory first, then head out.

The Contribution of Alexei Fedchenko to the History of Exploring the Nature of Tajikistan

Aleksey Pavlovich Fedchenko (1844-1873) was an outstanding Russian naturalist, traveler, and paleontologist. His research in the fields of geology, zoology, and botany largely formed the basis of modern science about the living world. Aleksey Fedchenko was born in Moscow to a family of peasant origin. From a young age, he showed an interest in nature, collecting and studying insects. In 1862, he enrolled in the physics and mathematics faculty at Moscow University, where he began to study natural sciences.

Spring Crafts Fair, Dushanbe, Tajikistan

In Dushanbe, on March 3-4, the Tajikistan Craftsmen Union, with the participation of various charitable organizations, is holding the Spring Crafts Fair at the Ismaili Center. I decided not to stay away from this event and visited the fair on March 3. Visiting a crafts fair is interesting because it offers the opportunity to see, in one place, practically all the crafts of Tajikistan and the craftsmen themselves, although here it might be more appropriate to call them artists. Of course, much of what is presented at the fair can be seen in the city's souvenir shops. But here, you have the chance to see and talk with the people who make all these things, which means you can choose or even order something special, to your own taste, that might not be available in a store. That's the practical benefit of this event, but we shouldn't forget that it is also the original and unique creativity of very gifted people.

Chapter 11: The Bog Hunt from Bear Metamorphoses

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For three more mornings, Luka made me change my form. He demanded I speed up the process. In the end, the transformation became almost instantaneous. But Luka wasn't satisfied, forcing me to do it again and again — sitting, standing, walking, running.

The Art of Observation: From Kim's Game to Finding Trail Signs

Before you can track anyone, you must know how to look. And to master camouflage, you need to understand how other creatures perceive a human. This may seem like a simple task—after all, we are constantly looking at things, aren't we? In reality, looking and seeing are two different things. True observation is a skill that must be learned and then trained relentlessly. You can refine it endlessly.

The Yeti in Tajikistan

The Yeti, also known as the Abominable Snowman, the Ghoul, or Bigfoot, is the subject of many legends and myths, as well as a source of excitement and curiosity for many people. Tajikistan is one of the places where encounters with this mysterious creature have been reported.

The Siyoma Gorge in Winter, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

Of course, it's hard to call this trip a hike, but let's do a photo review, as is the tradition. We happened to drive to the Siyama River Gorge and took some photos. In winter, there's nothing to do in Siyama; everything is covered in snow, and right now this snow is also melting during the day. Small avalanches are constantly falling from the sides, but you might be unlucky and get caught in a larger one somewhere. So, it's not worth taking unnecessary risks. In general, we didn't plan anything special, the opportunity just came up, and we went just to have a look. We walked a little way into the gorge, up to the gazebo on the right side.

The Perilous Beauty of Lake Sarez. Pamir, Tajikistan

Some natural landmarks are officially off-limits to the public. One such place is the mysterious and formidable Lake Sarez in Tajikistan. A permit from the Committee for Emergency Situations is required for a visit, though I cannot judge how strictly this rule is enforced—I personally haven't been there yet. But I very much wanted to tell the story of this unique and incredibly beautiful lake. To do so, I have gathered information and photographs from open sources. Its poetic name—"The Sleeping Dragon"—perfectly reflects its pristine beauty and hidden threat.

Chapter 10: Luka's Vixen from Bear Metamorphoses

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Of course, Luka was already waiting for me, always knowing in advance when I would arrive. He was sitting on the porch, tinkering with something as usual. When I approached, he lifted his head.
"Well, there you are. Have some kvass after your journey," he nodded towards a jug standing in the shade.
I happily downed a cup.

The Art of Animal Observation and the Secrets of Trackers

"Observing animals is incredibly fascinating, and tracking a stoat is often no easier than tracking a lion," noted Lord Robert Baden-Powell, the founder of the scouting movement. When we go on a hike, we enter territory that belongs not to us, but to hundreds of other living beings. To many, a forest seems empty and silent, but this impression is deceptive. You just need to know where to look and how to notice. Then a whole world full of amazing creatures will open up before you.

Gorge with a Waterfall at the 50km Mark, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

Back in mid-October, I had the chance to visit a small but very intriguing gorge near the 50th kilometer of the Varzob highway. I can’t say exactly which kilometer it was—it completely slipped my mind to check. On the way back, I asked the driver; he gave an answer, though he didn’t seem entirely sure, so let’s just say it’s in the vicinity of the 50km mark in the Varzob Gorge. Regardless, the hike happened, which means it’s time for a photo review.

Chapter 9: The Bear Amulet from Bear Metamorphoses

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I spent a couple of days at Luka's homestead, helping him with chores a bit, but we didn't really talk about anything important. Luka was constantly occupied with some object, fussing over it tirelessly, whispering something to it. I didn't ask questions, deciding that if he wanted to, he would have told me himself. If he was silent, there was a reason. I didn't see the bear during those days; after our memorable meeting, he had gone back into the forest.

The Most Important Skills for a Hike: Signaling for Help and Reading a Map Correctly

In today's world, where everyone has a mobile phone, it's very easy to report that you're in danger. It's foolish to underestimate the role of these phones as a means of calling for help. So, if you have a mobile, take it with you. However, as with a GPS navigator, you can't rely on a phone alone. What if its battery dies or there's no stable connection in the area you're in? Therefore, you must know how to signal for help using improvised means.

Salt Cave, Khoja Mumin Mountain, Vose District, Khatlon, Tajikistan

One of the landmarks of the Khatlon region, near the city of Vose, is Khoja Mumin Mountain. The people of Tajikistan see a product from this mountain on their tables daily: common salt. The Khoja Mumin plant is located at the foot of the mountain and produces this salt, supplying all of Tajikistan and also exporting it. According to expert estimates, the salt from Khoja Mumin Mountain could feed the entire world for a hundred years, so abundant are the deposits here.

Chapter 8: In the Dread Murom Forest from Bear Metamorphoses

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It was supposed to be a fishing trip, but it turned into a regular booze-up in the great outdoors, as often happens with men escaping the watchful eyes of their wives. One of my colleagues, who was from a local village near Kirov, had talked us all into going to a river aptly named Krivaya, or "Crooked." As Vysotsky sang: "In the reserved and dense, dreadful Murom forests, all sorts of unclean beings wander in hordes and sow fear in passersby."

How to Navigate by Weather Conditions on a Hike

Predicting the weather is a challenging task, even for professionals. Meteorologists use sophisticated equipment and computer models, yet they still make mistakes quite often. However, nature often gives us clues about upcoming changes—you just need to learn how to interpret them correctly. Without this skill, heading into the wilderness is risky: getting caught in severe weather isn't just inconvenient—it can be life-threatening.

Museum and Ancient City of Hulbuk, Vose, Khatlon, Tajikistan

The Hulbuk settlement (ancient city), more precisely the ancient city, was the capital of the ancient state of Khuttal. Today, it is an architectural monument dating from the 9th to the 12th centuries. Hulbuk was located on one of the southern branches of the Great Silk Road, thus occupying an important strategic position that facilitated cultural and trade exchange. Crafts of various kinds flourished in the city – pottery, glassblowing, jewelry making, blacksmithing, and many others.

Chapter 7: The Roads of the Pamirs from Bear Metamorphoses

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After descending a bit lower, I found a cozy little clearing. It was warmer here. I decided to rest and figure out my route. I transformed, took out my phone to look at the maps, and saw—a missed call from Shams. I called him back immediately.

How to Navigate by the Sun on a Hike

Navigating by the sun is a classic and reliable method for determining direction when modern tools aren't available. You can master it using simple objects: a stick or a regular analog watch.

All Ten Bridges in the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

On the last day of my hike, I trekked through the Odjuk Gorge from the Kumkayakutal Pass to the village of Varzob. I took this opportunity to dedicate a photo review to the ten bridges that now span the gorge. Previously known as the "Gorge of the Seven Bridges" among tourists, the presence of these ten bridges is a welcome sight compared to the Semiganch Gorge, where no bridges exist, and I had to jump over stones to cross the river.

Chapter 6: The Curse of the Circle of Darkness from Bear Metamorphoses

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Judging by the tracks, the Englishman, possessed by the jondor, after crossing the ridge, didn't descend but turned west. The altitude here, by the way, was considerable. A snow-covered section ran along the ridge's edge. After passing it, he turned. His path ran below the snow line but was still high up. Given how fast he was moving, one could only marvel at the Englishman's physical conditioning, whose name, incidentally, I still hadn't bothered to learn. If he continued like this without changing direction, he would eventually come out to a section of the highway between Ishkashim and Khorog. That road also ran along the border. Surely he wasn't going back to Afghanistan? That would be too much!

Celestial Navigation: How to Find Your Way by the Stars

Celestial navigation, or astronavigation, is one of the oldest methods for determining one's location. Long before the invention of maps, compasses, and GPS, people charted their course by the heavens. This technique was particularly vital for sailors, who, lacking landmarks in the open ocean, relied on the Moon and 57 navigational stars to plot their route.

Kumkayakutal Pass, 3-Day Hike, Semiganch Gorge, Romit, Mountains of Tajikistan

This is a photo review of the third day of my four-day trek from Kharangon to Ojuk through the Semiganch Gorge. In the last photo review, I stopped at the moment when I descended from Mount Mushteppa to the village of Dora. In the kishlak, I visited Faiz, reloaded my camera, had a delicious and filling lunch, and rested a bit from the hardships of camp life. Then, I continued along the river in the Semiganch Gorge towards the Kumkayakutal Pass in the Romit region. Once I pass the pass, I'll find myself in the Odjuk Gorge in the Varzob region..

Chapter 5: Back Across the Panj from Bear Metamorphoses

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It became clear I wouldn't catch the group before they crossed the river and the border. The road from the Panjshir Gorge came out to the Panj River opposite Ishkashim. The Englishmen had turned right and driven along the Afghan bank towards Khandud. Theoretically, they could now cross at any point—they just needed to ford the river. But logically, they would wait for darkness. They didn't just need to cross; they needed to go somewhere further. Bek said they had taken mountain equipment, meaning they might be heading into the mountains. They could enter the mountains in numerous places, provided they knew them. And they did know—they had a guide.

A Hiking Navigator: An Indispensable Assistant, But Not a Replacement for Skills

Originally developed for military purposes by the U.S. Department of Defense, GPS navigators were once secret technology for special forces. Today, they have become a standard part of everyday life, a common feature in cars and even smartphones.

Mount Mushtepa, Day 2 of the Hike, is a Ridge Between the Varzob and Ramit Gorges, Mountains of Tajikistan

The second day of my four-day hike was entirely dedicated to Mount Mushtepa. Mount Mushtepa is located on the watershed ridge between the Varzob and Ramit rivers, so on this day, I visited both of them. I began the ascent on the Varzob side in the Harangon River gorge, and by midday, I had reached the summit of Mushtepa before descending to the Ramit side in the Semiganch gorge.

Chapter 4: On Chicken Street in Kabul from Bear Metamorphoses

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On the Afghan side of the Panj, just like on the Tajik side, there was a small settlement near the bridge. To avoid being seen, I didn't approach it but immediately headed towards the road. Of the main roads, only one led south from the bridge—first to Kunduz, and then on to Kabul. I ran alongside this road, not getting too close, but not losing sight of it either.

How to Estimate Time and Distance on a Hike

Figuring out how many kilometers you need to cover and how long it will take are crucial questions when planning an expedition. We're used to road signs and speedometers telling us where we are in a car. On a hike, we'd like to know that too.
Unfortunately, it's not that simple—measuring distance in steps, especially over rough terrain, is monotonous and tedious. A map can show the total distance to your destination, but it doesn't account for hills, gullies, and other obstacles that add extra kilometers. So, distance can only be estimated. However, there are situations where a rough calculation of time and distance is not only useful but necessary.

The Harangoni Gorge and Ridge, a One-Day Trek, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

So, I decided to go on a hike, during which I planned to visit places such as the Harangoni Ridge, climb Mount Mushtepa, descend from the mountain into the Semiganch Gorge, and hike through it to the Kumkayakutal Pass. After crossing the pass, I would end up in the Ojuk Gorge and hike through it all the way to the village of Varzob. I fully completed this route plan in four days. This is a photo overview of the first day of the hike.

Chapter 3: The Pursuit Continues from Bear Metamorphoses

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Nursultan, the driver who had taken the Englishmen to the city, didn't show up until the next morning. He said he'd arrived during the night and needed to rest. I was glad he'd appeared at all—he could have simply gone about his business and never come. I asked him about the Englishmen. He said he'd dropped them off at the "Sheraton." He also mentioned they had argued the entire way, especially the red-haired one, who seemed to be fighting with everyone. There were four of them, including the redhead. Nursultan left them at the hotel; he didn't know what they did after that because he went straight to the taxi stand. This stand was in the northern part of the city, the only place he could find passengers for the return trip in the direction he needed.

How to Read a Map Correctly and Plan the Perfect Route

In the United Kingdom, you have access to excellent maps created by the Military Topographic Service. However, not all maps are of such high quality, so you must learn to extract the maximum amount of information from them. To do this, you need to master topographic symbols.

A Whisper from the Netherworld - Short story

The five of them trekked through the gorge alongside a narrow mountain river. The path zigzagged capriciously, and the frequent rocky outcrops often rendered the banks impassable. They had to cross the river again and again, ford its cold currents time after time. But no one complained. These were wild, uninhabited lands—who would build bridges here? And that was precisely what they had wanted: to get as far away as possible, into the deepest backcountry. So, they all jumped across the slippery stones with enthusiasm, conquering each watery obstacle.

Hiking to the Peak of Gushor, Varzob Gorge, Mountains of Tajikistan

The peak of Gushor is well visible from any point in Dushanbe. I have been planning to climb it for a long time, and finally I did it. The mountain, or rather the peak of Gushor, is one of the peaks that crown the Chilikak ridge. This ridge stretches from the Varzob River (approximately 16-21 kilometers from the Varzob highway) to the Luchob River in the area of the village of Shiratalo. The Gushor peak (2450 meters) is not the highest point of the Chilikak ridge; there is another peak with a weather station above it (2552 meters), another unnamed peak (2606 meters), and the highest point, the Chilokak peak (2702 meters), which is already closer to Shiratalo and cannot be seen from the city.

Chapter 2: The Lake of Spirits from Bear Metamorphoses

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My path now led to another point of interest—Lake Payron, also known as the Lake of the Peris. Another name is the Lake of Fairies or Spirits. It refers to the beautiful peris, spirits from Eastern folklore who always appear to humans in the form of alluring women. Peris more or less correspond to fairies in Western tradition, though those are usually small, while peris are human-sized. In principle, it's all mythology—where does one find exact correspondences?

The Skill of Land Navigation: Working with a Compass and Map

The ability to determine your location is a key skill for any traveler. It distinguishes a prepared individual from an ordinary nature enthusiast and can be critical in an emergency. This is important not only in remote wilderness areas but in any terrain where one faces the elements. Confident navigation is the key to a successful trip.

Hiking to the Waterfalls in Voru Gorge, Odzhuk, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

The first hike of the year, I decided to go to the waterfalls in the Voru Gorge in Odjukskie Mountains, Varzob district, Tajikistan. Previously, I called it the Lost Waterfall. Of course, no one lost this waterfall, but it needed a name, so why not call it Lost? I had already seen it a couple of times before, once when we descended from the ridge that lies between Takob and Odjuk on this hike: Crossing from the Begar Gorge to Odjuk. At that time, I thought I should go to this waterfall, and the convenient moment finally arrived. I also thought it was the only one there, but there were other waterfalls, though smaller.

Chapter 1: The Gorge of Fear from Bear Metamorphoses

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I only drank coffee in the morning—I wasn't hungry. I packed up the tent, stowed everything in my backpack, and headed back to the trail. I went down along the old caravan route. By evening, I was in the village, found a guesthouse—there turned out to be several here. I chose the one on the eastern side. Later, I would need to head east anyway, to the abandoned settlement—rumors were circulating about strange happenings there. But all that could wait; for now, I needed to recover. And that meant meat and alcohol.

Teamwork: How to Make a Hike Successful

Whether you're staying at a stationary camp with many people or have stopped for the night with a small group on a trek, you should always feel like part of a team. I have spent a lot of time traveling in small groups through the planet's most severe environments.

Hiking the Odzhuk Circuit, Varzob, mountains of Tajikistan

I completed a solo trek along the Odzhuk loop. The route, as the name suggests, passes through the Odzhuk gorge in Varzob, Tajikistan. To complete this route, one must hike through the entire Odzhuk gorge up to the Kichkine pass, then traverse the plateau to the Childukhtarun pass and descend back into Odzhuk. Ideally, this route can be completed in two days with one overnight stay, but since I was alone and taking my time, climbing and taking photos wherever I could, my trek took three days and two nights.

Prologue: The Ice Witch’s Lake from Bear Metamorphoses

The going was tough—the altitude was taking its toll. I had walked about fifty meters down from the highest point of the pass saddle and found the spot where the creature had presumably attacked its victim. For now, we’ll just call it a creature. We’ll figure out what it really is later. So, the attack site was identified: a rocky outcrop jutted above the trail, perfect for an ambush. I examined it—just as I thought. I found a secluded niche from which a stale, nauseating smell emanated. It was logical to assume the creature had been coming here from the eastern side of the road.

Maintaining General Hygiene on a Camping Trip

While each person is responsible for their own personal hygiene, when in a camp or on a hike, everyone must also be accountable for communal, or general, hygiene.

Waste Disposal

When setting up camp, designate a waste collection area with separate zones for kitchen wastewater, biodegradable waste, and non-biodegradable waste.

Hiking from Begar Gorge to Odjuk Along the Ridge Between Takob and Odjuk, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

Spontaneous hike, when it was offered to me, I didn't really know where we would end up or how we would get there. Despite the uncertainty, the hike turned out to be very successful. There were a lot of impressions, first of all, intriguing old mine tunnels at the beginning of the hike. Secondly, it was very interesting to walk along the watershed ridge, looking down at the gorges that I had already walked through many times at the bottom.

Personal Hygiene in Camping Conditions

The word "hygiene" originates from the name of the ancient Greek goddess of health, Hygieia. And this is no coincidence, as maintaining cleanliness is not just a matter of convenience, but the foundation of well-being, especially when away from home. In camping or stationary camp conditions, where people are in close contact, any infection spreads rapidly. It only takes one person to fall ill to jeopardize the entire group's outing. Therefore, hygiene rules in nature are a matter of collective safety and comfort.

Hike to Adit in the Beggar Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

We decided to hike from the Beggar gorge to the Ojuk gorge and wander around the ridge separating them. During this hike, we stumbled upon abandoned mines in the Beggar gorge. These abandoned mines, where fluorite used to be extracted, seemed interesting to me, so I decided to dedicate a separate photo review to them. I have already come across old mines in the Varzob gorge. Just this year, I did a photo review of such a hike, which can be viewed here if anyone is interested.".

New Year's Tangerines - Short story

The evening of December 31st didn't feel at all like New Year's. It was snowing or raining, and a gusty icy wind made things worse. Huddled up, I walked along the sidewalk, cursing the wretched weather, the new year, and my boss who had made me stay late at work. By the way, they still hadn't given us our advance pay. Now I'll have to wait for my salary, and that won't be until after the New Year holidays. I barely had any money left. At least I managed to buy some food for the New Year's table in advance.

"Iron" Rations: What to Take on a Hike for an Emergency

When heading out on a hike, it's important to anticipate unforeseen circumstances, such as running out of provisions. For this very reason, experienced hikers have an "emergency reserve" — special foods that provide a lot of slowly released energy, are lightweight, and have a long shelf life. Classic examples of this "iron" ration, tried and tested by scouts and travelers, are pemmican and pinole. They are quick to prepare, can be stored for years, and can help you endure a difficult situation.

Iskanderkul Lake, Fann Mountains, Tajikistan

Iskanderkul in the Fann Mountains is probably the most famous and photographed lake in Tajikistan. I had the chance to visit there and, of course, take pictures of this beautiful mountain lake. We stayed at Iskanderkul for a few days, walking around the lake and its surroundings. We were very lucky with the weather, we swam and sunbathed, and only on the last day did clouds appear and it started to rain. In the end, we had a great time, and I put together this and several other photo reviews of our outings in the area, as well as a separate detailed article about the description and legends of Iskanderkul Lake.

Hydration on the Trail: How to Find, Purify, and Drink Water Correctly

The human body is resilient, but without water, it cannot survive more than a few days. Water forms the foundation of our bodies and is involved in all vital processes. We lose over 3 liters of fluid daily, and under hiking conditions—due to physical exertion, heat, cold, and altitude—these losses increase significantly. Replenishing them is a top priority.