Chapter 8: In the Dread Murom Forest from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
It was supposed to be a fishing trip, but it turned into a regular booze-up in the great outdoors, as often happens with men escaping the watchful eyes of their wives. One of my colleagues, who was from a local village near Kirov, had talked us all into going to a river aptly named Krivaya, or "Crooked." As Vysotsky sang: "In the reserved and dense, dreadful Murom forests, all sorts of unclean beings wander in hordes and sow fear in passersby."

How to Navigate by Weather Conditions on a Hike

Predicting the weather is a challenging task, even for professionals. Meteorologists use sophisticated equipment and computer models, yet they still make mistakes quite often. However, nature often gives us clues about upcoming changes—you just need to learn how to interpret them correctly. Without this skill, heading into the wilderness is risky: getting caught in severe weather isn't just inconvenient—it can be life-threatening.

Museum and Ancient City of Hulbuk, Vose, Khatlon, Tajikistan

The Hulbuk settlement (ancient city), more precisely the ancient city, was the capital of the ancient state of Khuttal. Today, it is an architectural monument dating from the 9th to the 12th centuries. Hulbuk was located on one of the southern branches of the Great Silk Road, thus occupying an important strategic position that facilitated cultural and trade exchange. Crafts of various kinds flourished in the city – pottery, glassblowing, jewelry making, blacksmithing, and many others.

Chapter 7: The Roads of the Pamirs from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
After descending a bit lower, I found a cozy little clearing. It was warmer here. I decided to rest and figure out my route. I transformed, took out my phone to look at the maps, and saw—a missed call from Shams. I called him back immediately.

How to Navigate by the Sun on a Hike

Navigating by the sun is a classic and reliable method for determining direction when modern tools aren't available. You can master it using simple objects: a stick or a regular analog watch.

All Ten Bridges in the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

On the last day of my hike, I trekked through the Odjuk Gorge from the Kumkayakutal Pass to the village of Varzob. I took this opportunity to dedicate a photo review to the ten bridges that now span the gorge. Previously known as the "Gorge of the Seven Bridges" among tourists, the presence of these ten bridges is a welcome sight compared to the Semiganch Gorge, where no bridges exist, and I had to jump over stones to cross the river.

Chapter 6: The Curse of the Circle of Darkness from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
Judging by the tracks, the Englishman, possessed by the jondor, after crossing the ridge, didn't descend but turned west. The altitude here, by the way, was considerable. A snow-covered section ran along the ridge's edge. After passing it, he turned. His path ran below the snow line but was still high up. Given how fast he was moving, one could only marvel at the Englishman's physical conditioning, whose name, incidentally, I still hadn't bothered to learn. If he continued like this without changing direction, he would eventually come out to a section of the highway between Ishkashim and Khorog. That road also ran along the border. Surely he wasn't going back to Afghanistan? That would be too much!

Celestial Navigation: How to Find Your Way by the Stars

Celestial navigation, or astronavigation, is one of the oldest methods for determining one's location. Long before the invention of maps, compasses, and GPS, people charted their course by the heavens. This technique was particularly vital for sailors, who, lacking landmarks in the open ocean, relied on the Moon and 57 navigational stars to plot their route.

Kumkayakutal Pass, 3-Day Hike, Semiganch Gorge, Romit, Mountains of Tajikistan

This is a photo review of the third day of my four-day trek from Kharangon to Ojuk through the Semiganch Gorge. In the last photo review, I stopped at the moment when I descended from Mount Mushteppa to the village of Dora. In the kishlak, I visited Faiz, reloaded my camera, had a delicious and filling lunch, and rested a bit from the hardships of camp life. Then, I continued along the river in the Semiganch Gorge towards the Kumkayakutal Pass in the Romit region. Once I pass the pass, I'll find myself in the Odjuk Gorge in the Varzob region..

Chapter 5: Back Across the Panj from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
It became clear I wouldn't catch the group before they crossed the river and the border. The road from the Panjshir Gorge came out to the Panj River opposite Ishkashim. The Englishmen had turned right and driven along the Afghan bank towards Khandud. Theoretically, they could now cross at any point—they just needed to ford the river. But logically, they would wait for darkness. They didn't just need to cross; they needed to go somewhere further. Bek said they had taken mountain equipment, meaning they might be heading into the mountains. They could enter the mountains in numerous places, provided they knew them. And they did know—they had a guide.