Chapter 9: The Bear Amulet from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
I spent a couple of days at Luka's homestead, helping him with chores a bit, but we didn't really talk about anything important. Luka was constantly occupied with some object, fussing over it tirelessly, whispering something to it. I didn't ask questions, deciding that if he wanted to, he would have told me himself. If he was silent, there was a reason. I didn't see the bear during those days; after our memorable meeting, he had gone back into the forest.

The Most Important Skills for a Hike: Signaling for Help and Reading a Map Correctly

In today's world, where everyone has a mobile phone, it's very easy to report that you're in danger. It's foolish to underestimate the role of these phones as a means of calling for help. So, if you have a mobile, take it with you. However, as with a GPS navigator, you can't rely on a phone alone. What if its battery dies or there's no stable connection in the area you're in? Therefore, you must know how to signal for help using improvised means.

Salt Cave, Khoja Mumin Mountain, Vose District, Khatlon, Tajikistan

One of the landmarks of the Khatlon region, near the city of Vose, is Khoja Mumin Mountain. The people of Tajikistan see a product from this mountain on their tables daily: common salt. The Khoja Mumin plant is located at the foot of the mountain and produces this salt, supplying all of Tajikistan and also exporting it. According to expert estimates, the salt from Khoja Mumin Mountain could feed the entire world for a hundred years, so abundant are the deposits here.

Chapter 8: In the Dread Murom Forest from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
It was supposed to be a fishing trip, but it turned into a regular booze-up in the great outdoors, as often happens with men escaping the watchful eyes of their wives. One of my colleagues, who was from a local village near Kirov, had talked us all into going to a river aptly named Krivaya, or "Crooked." As Vysotsky sang: "In the reserved and dense, dreadful Murom forests, all sorts of unclean beings wander in hordes and sow fear in passersby."

How to Navigate by Weather Conditions on a Hike

Predicting the weather is a challenging task, even for professionals. Meteorologists use sophisticated equipment and computer models, yet they still make mistakes quite often. However, nature often gives us clues about upcoming changes—you just need to learn how to interpret them correctly. Without this skill, heading into the wilderness is risky: getting caught in severe weather isn't just inconvenient—it can be life-threatening.

Museum and Ancient City of Hulbuk, Vose, Khatlon, Tajikistan

The Hulbuk settlement (ancient city), more precisely the ancient city, was the capital of the ancient state of Khuttal. Today, it is an architectural monument dating from the 9th to the 12th centuries. Hulbuk was located on one of the southern branches of the Great Silk Road, thus occupying an important strategic position that facilitated cultural and trade exchange. Crafts of various kinds flourished in the city – pottery, glassblowing, jewelry making, blacksmithing, and many others.

Chapter 7: The Roads of the Pamirs from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
After descending a bit lower, I found a cozy little clearing. It was warmer here. I decided to rest and figure out my route. I transformed, took out my phone to look at the maps, and saw—a missed call from Shams. I called him back immediately.

How to Navigate by the Sun on a Hike

Navigating by the sun is a classic and reliable method for determining direction when modern tools aren't available. You can master it using simple objects: a stick or a regular analog watch.

All Ten Bridges in the Odjuk Gorge, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

On the last day of my hike, I trekked through the Odjuk Gorge from the Kumkayakutal Pass to the village of Varzob. I took this opportunity to dedicate a photo review to the ten bridges that now span the gorge. Previously known as the "Gorge of the Seven Bridges" among tourists, the presence of these ten bridges is a welcome sight compared to the Semiganch Gorge, where no bridges exist, and I had to jump over stones to cross the river.

Chapter 6: The Curse of the Circle of Darkness from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
Judging by the tracks, the Englishman, possessed by the jondor, after crossing the ridge, didn't descend but turned west. The altitude here, by the way, was considerable. A snow-covered section ran along the ridge's edge. After passing it, he turned. His path ran below the snow line but was still high up. Given how fast he was moving, one could only marvel at the Englishman's physical conditioning, whose name, incidentally, I still hadn't bothered to learn. If he continued like this without changing direction, he would eventually come out to a section of the highway between Ishkashim and Khorog. That road also ran along the border. Surely he wasn't going back to Afghanistan? That would be too much!