The Perilous Beauty of Lake Sarez. Pamir, Tajikistan

Some natural landmarks are officially off-limits to the public. One such place is the mysterious and formidable Lake Sarez in Tajikistan. A permit from the Committee for Emergency Situations is required for a visit, though I cannot judge how strictly this rule is enforced—I personally haven't been there yet. But I very much wanted to tell the story of this unique and incredibly beautiful lake. To do so, I have gathered information and photographs from open sources. Its poetic name—"The Sleeping Dragon"—perfectly reflects its pristine beauty and hidden threat.

Chapter 10: Luka's Vixen from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
Of course, Luka was already waiting for me, always knowing in advance when I would arrive. He was sitting on the porch, tinkering with something as usual. When I approached, he lifted his head.
"Well, there you are. Have some kvass after your journey," he nodded towards a jug standing in the shade.
I happily downed a cup.

The Art of Animal Observation and the Secrets of Trackers

"Observing animals is incredibly fascinating, and tracking a stoat is often no easier than tracking a lion," noted Lord Robert Baden-Powell, the founder of the scouting movement. When we go on a hike, we enter territory that belongs not to us, but to hundreds of other living beings. To many, a forest seems empty and silent, but this impression is deceptive. You just need to know where to look and how to notice. Then a whole world full of amazing creatures will open up before you.

Gorge with a Waterfall at the 50km Mark, Varzob, Mountains of Tajikistan

Back in mid-October, I had the chance to visit a small but very intriguing gorge near the 50th kilometer of the Varzob highway. I can’t say exactly which kilometer it was—it completely slipped my mind to check. On the way back, I asked the driver; he gave an answer, though he didn’t seem entirely sure, so let’s just say it’s in the vicinity of the 50km mark in the Varzob Gorge. Regardless, the hike happened, which means it’s time for a photo review.

Chapter 9: The Bear Amulet from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
I spent a couple of days at Luka's homestead, helping him with chores a bit, but we didn't really talk about anything important. Luka was constantly occupied with some object, fussing over it tirelessly, whispering something to it. I didn't ask questions, deciding that if he wanted to, he would have told me himself. If he was silent, there was a reason. I didn't see the bear during those days; after our memorable meeting, he had gone back into the forest.

The Most Important Skills for a Hike: Signaling for Help and Reading a Map Correctly

In today's world, where everyone has a mobile phone, it's very easy to report that you're in danger. It's foolish to underestimate the role of these phones as a means of calling for help. So, if you have a mobile, take it with you. However, as with a GPS navigator, you can't rely on a phone alone. What if its battery dies or there's no stable connection in the area you're in? Therefore, you must know how to signal for help using improvised means.

Salt Cave, Khoja Mumin Mountain, Vose District, Khatlon, Tajikistan

One of the landmarks of the Khatlon region, near the city of Vose, is Khoja Mumin Mountain. The people of Tajikistan see a product from this mountain on their tables daily: common salt. The Khoja Mumin plant is located at the foot of the mountain and produces this salt, supplying all of Tajikistan and also exporting it. According to expert estimates, the salt from Khoja Mumin Mountain could feed the entire world for a hundred years, so abundant are the deposits here.

Chapter 8: In the Dread Murom Forest from Bear Metamorphoses

≪ to the previous chapter
It was supposed to be a fishing trip, but it turned into a regular booze-up in the great outdoors, as often happens with men escaping the watchful eyes of their wives. One of my colleagues, who was from a local village near Kirov, had talked us all into going to a river aptly named Krivaya, or "Crooked." As Vysotsky sang: "In the reserved and dense, dreadful Murom forests, all sorts of unclean beings wander in hordes and sow fear in passersby."

How to Navigate by Weather Conditions on a Hike

Predicting the weather is a challenging task, even for professionals. Meteorologists use sophisticated equipment and computer models, yet they still make mistakes quite often. However, nature often gives us clues about upcoming changes—you just need to learn how to interpret them correctly. Without this skill, heading into the wilderness is risky: getting caught in severe weather isn't just inconvenient—it can be life-threatening.

Museum and Ancient City of Hulbuk, Vose, Khatlon, Tajikistan

The Hulbuk settlement (ancient city), more precisely the ancient city, was the capital of the ancient state of Khuttal. Today, it is an architectural monument dating from the 9th to the 12th centuries. Hulbuk was located on one of the southern branches of the Great Silk Road, thus occupying an important strategic position that facilitated cultural and trade exchange. Crafts of various kinds flourished in the city – pottery, glassblowing, jewelry making, blacksmithing, and many others.