The highest point of Tajikistan is Peak Ismoili Somoni, rising 7,495 meters above sea level. It is the highest peak in Central Asia and throughout the entire territory of the CIS (Commonwealth of Independent States). Among the world's highest peaks, it ranks fiftieth.

For climbers from the CIS and around the world, Peak Ismoili Somoni is a landmark summit. Many consider it their duty to climb it. More than thirty routes lead to the summit. Some of them are recognized as the most challenging in the world. Their distinctive features are unique technical parameters: a colossal altitude difference of about 2,500 meters and a steepness exceeding fifty percent.

Every year, during the climbing season, at Moskvina Meadow — the base camp at the foot of the peak — climbers gather from all corners of the planet, united by the hope of ascending this mountain.

The summit tower of Peak Ismoili Somoni | © Виталий Гуревич

Territorially, the peak is located in the northwestern part of the Murghab District, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Republic of Tajikistan. The summit lies in the Akademiya Nauk Range, at the point where the Peter the Great Range branches off from it.

The peak was named after the emir of the Samanid dynasty — Ismoili Somoni, the founder of the first Tajik state in history. It received this name in 1999, after Tajikistan gained independence. Before that, in reverse chronological order, the peak bore the name Communism Peak from 1962 to 1998. And even earlier, from 1933 to 1962, it was Stalin Peak.

Some sources mention an ancient name, "Uztergi", with a tentative translation — "head-spinning". However, the reliability that this name referred specifically to Peak Ismoili Somoni is questionable. There are too many other peaks around, and the area is extremely inaccessible.

Peak Ismoili Somoni | © Денис Осин

There are practically no settlements here. Nearby there are no roads or even old caravan trails. Climbers reach the base camp by helicopter — either from Dushanbe or from Jirgatal.

The history of the peak's discovery is also interesting. The first mention appears in the diary of V. F. Oshanin. He wrote: "I believe that the eastern peak has a height of up to 25,000 feet…" It was his expedition in the 1880s that gave names to the Peter the Great, Darvaz, and Karategin ranges. At the junction of these ranges, the expedition members noticed four peaks. Most likely, Oshanin's note referred precisely to Peak Ismoili Somoni.

Later, many more expeditions worked in this part of the Pamirs. However, the area around the peak remained a "blank spot" for a long time due to its inaccessibility.

From left to right: Abalakov Peak, Leningrad Peak, Peak Ismoili Somoni, Peak Rossiya | © Денис Осин

In 1928, the Tajik-Pamir expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences began its work. That time it was a Soviet-German expedition. The height of 7,495 meters was determined by phototheodolite survey by the German geodesist Finsterwalder. However, the German geodesists decided that this was Garmo Peak, which in fact is located twenty kilometers to the south, and its height is 6,595 meters.

Later, cross-checking of all available data revealed a discrepancy. For several years, this mystery was called the "Garmo Knot mystery". Nevertheless, 1928 is considered the official year of the discovery of Peak Ismoili Somoni — then it was simply called "Peak 7495".

Garmo Peak, Pamir Mountains, Tajikistan | © Денис Осин

The Garmo Knot mystery was finally resolved by the subsequent Tajik-Pamir expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences in 1931–32. Three separate detachments — those of Krylenko, Gorbunov, and Dorofeev — managed to approach the mountain from several directions. Dorofeev's detachment penetrated the area of the Fortambek and Walter glaciers. Their geodetic surveys showed that Garmo Peak and Peak 7495 are two completely different summits. Thus, the highest point of the USSR was precisely determined.

In connection with Stalin's upcoming 55th birthday, the peak was named after him. This was an outstanding geographical discovery — the highest point of the Pamirs was finally mapped. The result of many years of work by researchers and travelers, starting from 1878.

Peak Ismoili Somoni, Pamir Mountains, Tajikistan | © Михаил Маковкин

The following year, 1933, the government set a new task for the Tajik-Pamir expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences: to make the first ascent of the newly discovered peak. A large expedition was organized. It included 215 scientists and about four hundred support staff and workers. In addition to the ascent, the program included other objectives — research, geographical, and sporting.

In July 1933, the expedition reached the Bivachny Glacier. Despite tragic losses (two participants died), the climbers began planning the assault.

The ascent route on Peak Ismoili Somoni | © Евгений Письменный

On August 22, six climbers — A. Get'e, D. Gushchin, M. Shiyanov, N. Chepiy, A. Tsak, and E. Abalakov — led by N. Gorbunov, began the assault. At an altitude of 6,900 meters, three climbers stopped the ascent due to extreme exhaustion. Only Chepiy, Gorbunov, and Abalakov continued.

On September 1, the group was caught in a snowstorm that lasted several days. Food was running out. Chepiy fell ill. On September 3, the weather improved. Gorbunov and Abalakov made an attempt at the final assault. At an altitude of 7,380 meters, Gorbunov stopped due to severe frostbite on his feet. Evgeny Abalakov continued the assault alone.

Snow and wind on Peak Ismoili Somoni | © Виталий Гуреви

In his diary, Abalakov described the finish as follows:
*"The last steep, difficult section is overcome. To the right, a ridge of rocky, gentler outcrops. The first stone slabs. The summit!… Here it is! I couldn't hold back; in my excitement and joy, I crawled on all fours and lay down on the wonderful, slightly warm slabs, protected from the cold wind. First thing — I pulled out the altimeter. The needle went to the last divisions — 7,700 meters. This was a pleasant surprise. Even if you take the correction (it read a bit high), the figure is still solid, close to 7,500. The temperature on the altimeter — minus 20 degrees. That's not precise: it usually under-reads. In the strong wind, the frost bites hard. Two huge icicles hang from my mustache. My beard has also become icy… I make diagrams and sketches of glaciers, peaks, and ridges."*

Pre-summit knife-edge ridge | © Олег Кирьянов

Evgeny Abalakov reached the summit and even built a cairn. The eighty-day expedition ended in success.

On the final section, Abalakov was roped with the 44-year-old Gorbunov, who had no mountaineering experience. He climbed to 7,380 meters — he had only about a hundred vertical meters left. It was Gorbunov who helped Abalakov, as they say, "push through" the summit. Gorbunov waited for Abalakov on the descent almost at the same spot, photographing and sketching the ridges of this tangled mountain knot. They continued their descent together until they were met by Chepiy, who accompanied them further down to base camp.

Soon after the ascent, Abalakov temporarily lost his vision (snow blindness), and Gorbunov had five toes amputated.

Evgeny Abalakov

Evgeny Abalakov became the first Soviet climber to cross the 7,000‑meter mark. At that time, it was only the fifth ascent of a seven-thousander in the world. An outstanding achievement that gave a powerful impetus to the development of mountaineering in the country. The government's assignment was fulfilled.

Having descended to an altitude of 3,900 meters, Gorbunov sent a telegram:

"Moscow, Kremlin, to Comrade Stalin. We joyfully inform you that the highest peak of the USSR, discovered by us last year and named after you, has been taken by our assault group. Two scientific meteorological stations have been installed on the peak. The group sends you a flaming greeting. Gorbunov."

Thus began the glorious history of ascents of this amazing mountain — Peak Ismoili Somoni.

Sunset on Peak Ismoili Somoni | © Олег Кирьянов

Peak Ismoili Somoni (Communism Peak), Pamir Mountains, Tajikistan